Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: B. Scott
Page Views: 1,708 total · 13/month
Shared By: Ben Scott on Feb 20, 2013
Admins: James Schroeder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This route was installed thanks to the Arthur's Rock Fixed Anchor Initiative (2013).
Please consult the Lory State Park Rock Climbing guide for more information:
nococlimbing.org/portfolio/…

This great mixed climb follows the obvious dihedral between Big, Bad Book and Rocksie Rocks. Start up the right-facing corner by placing a #4 and #3.5 Camalot and moving into the continuous stemming positions. At the top of the corner, a bouldery sequence (crux) leads over a short bulge to a rest before the final bulge. Clip the final bolt after a big move to reach the upper slab and the anchor.

Location Suggest change

To reach the South Face, hike up the ArthurÂ’s Rock Trail for about 45-60 minutes. After you pass the Childbirth and Valhalla Boulders, the South Face is in view and off the trail on climberÂ’s right.

Protection Suggest change

4 bolts plus a standard rack with a #4 and #3.5 BD, 2-bolt chain anchor for lowering.

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