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Routes in South Face of Arthur's Rock

Big, Bad Book T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blackish Blobs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Corridor Project S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Doom Corner T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Edge Of Time S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Excellent Adventure S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Front Gate T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Goldeneye S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Great Corner, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Variant, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Intestinal Fortitude S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kiddy Pool S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Owl Roof S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Right of Passage T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rocksie Rocks S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sunday Morning Coming Down T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sunrise T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sunset (submitted as Mole Rat Crack) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Water Fountain TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: B.Scott, J. Tarry
Page Views: 683 total, 15/month
Shared By: Ben Scott on Mar 31, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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2017 Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route was installed thanks to the Arthur's Rock Fixed Anchor Initiative (2014). Please consult the Lory State Park Rock Climbing guide for more information:
http://nococlimbing.org/portfolio/arthurs-rock-bouldering-guide/

Start in a short, left-facing corner about 30 feet left of The Great Corner. Climb two bolts up the corner to a 30 foot traverse moving right along a slopy ledge with non-existent hand holds. After the traverse, climb up the left-leaning seam until you can switch to the easier crack on the left.

Location

To reach the South Face, hike up the ArthurÂ’s Rock Trail for about 45-60 minutes. After you pass the Childbirth and Valhalla Boulders, the South Face is in view and off the trail on climberÂ’s right.

Protection

11 bolts and a 2-bolt anchor.

ROPE MANAGEMENT is tricky with this route due to the long traverse. Climbing with 2 ropes is ideal. Otherwise you can tie both ends of your single rope to your harness, climb the initial corner and traverse with the 1st end, clip the first two bolts on the diagonal with the 2nd end, then untie end 1 and drop it back to your belayer. This sounds weird, but it really wasn't too bad at all.

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