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Routes in South Face of Arthur's Rock

Big, Bad Book T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blackish Blobs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Corridor Project S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Doom Corner T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Edge Of Time S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Excellent Adventure S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Front Gate T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Goldeneye S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Great Corner, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Variant, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Intestinal Fortitude S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kiddy Pool S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Owl Roof S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Right of Passage T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rocksie Rocks S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sunday Morning Coming Down T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sunrise T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sunset (submitted as Mole Rat Crack) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Water Fountain TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,122 total, 19/month
Shared By: Ben Scott on Feb 20, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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2017 Raptor Closures Details


The Great Corner is the large, right-facing corner/chimney system up the South Face of Arthur's Rock.

Pitch 1: climb the wide crack/runnel system up and left to where it widens to a chimney. Belay at the 2-bolt anchor (1/2"x3" SS 5-piece anchor installed on 3/30/14) at the first obvious ledge/break.

Pitch 2: climb a tricky wide crack to easier terrain to the top.

Descent: most parties will lower from the P1 anchor (60m rope required). From the summit/end of P2, use the standard walk-off or use the Right of Passage rappels.

This route has obviously been done many times before, but the NCCC could never find any detailed info on it. If you know any history or have climbed the route before, please chime in.


To reach the South Face, hike up the ArthurÂ’s Rock Trail for about 45-60 minutes. After you pass the Childbirth and Valhalla Boulders, the South Face is in view and off the trail on climberÂ’s right.


Standard rack plus a few wide pieces.


Yellow Totem cam and a BD #3.5 were better than nothing at the face crux of p1. Yellow c3 might have worked too. Dec 11, 2015
. . . CO
nruea   . . . CO
I like topping out. . . so it would be cool to see some sort of variation/protection to exit the roof on the right. Feb 17, 2014
. . . CO
nruea   . . . CO
No way. . . this is a good adventure route in a fun (albeit fairly manky) chimney, with great southern exposure. The most obvious nat line on the rock. Kor would've loved it!

The crux (exiting the alcove OH on P2) is pretty damned sketch! Maybe a bolt on the slab to protect that crucial exit move?
If you stay in the CH/crack, it becomes considerably more difficult than 5.9 to climb out. You can RO on the moderate slab aside the crux moves, but a fall would be ouch. Dec 13, 2013
Loveland/Vail, CO
climber76   Loveland/Vail, CO
A really bad route. Sep 26, 2013