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Areas in Arthur's Rock

Childbirth (Area at Arthur's Rock) 0 / 1 / 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Fog that Surrounds 0 / 0 / 0 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Main Area (Arthur's Rock) 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Main Area (With Boulders) 0 / 1 / 0 / 27 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 28
Parking Lot Wall (Arthur's Rock) 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Snake and the Skewer 0 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
South Face of Arthur's Rock 9 / 12 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19
Elevation: 6,294 ft
GPS: 40.566, -105.188 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 46,744 total, 436/month
Shared By: martin tikusis on Feb 21, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description

While Fort Collins' locals have been climbing at Arthur’s Rock for decades, the main development phase of bouldering began in 1999, led by Pat Goodman. Since then, Arthur’s Rock has remained a cherished and hidden gem frequented by locals but largely unknown to the larger climbing community.

This is a great area for Winter, Spring, and Fall. Conditions can be excellent here in the coldest of winter months due to the sunny, south-facing aspect of the hillside and cliff. There are rattlesnakes in the summer, and it is generally too hot to climb here. Arthur's Rock is most known for its bouldering, but it also has a small collection of trad and sport routes.

The rock quality at Arthur’s Rock has been described as being anywhere from total choss to a granite technician's dream. Mostly a granite conglomerate of several rock types, the climbing tends to be fingery and requires very technical footwork. Small edges, gritty slopers, and the occasional pink knob are the norm for grips around Arthur’s Rock.

Check out the comprehensive, online, free to print, guidebook by NC3 here here. The printed version of the Lory State Park Guidebook is now available at the Lory State Park Visitors Center, Jax Outdoor Gear, and Miramont Fitness North.

The NCCC has worked with Lory State Park to establish the Arthur's Rock Fixed Anchor Initiative. Replacement of old fixed anchors and establishment of new routes that require fixed anchors is now possible through an application process. Please consult the Lory State Park Guidebook for more information.

Getting There

From downtown Fort Collins, head west on Laporte Ave. until it ends. Turn right on Overland Trail and head north for approximately 2.5 miles. Turn left on Bingham Hill Rd/Co Rd 50E, and go west for 2.0 miles. Turn left onto N Co Rd 23 for 1.2 miles and finally a right onto N Co Rd 25 G. Take 25G for 1.6 miles until you reach the gate for the park. There are signs for Lory State Park after the Bingham Hill turn off Overland Trail.

From the Park entrance, proceed to the Visitor's Center to pay for your day or annual pass. From there, continue down the main road (Lodgepole Dr.) until it dead ends at the parking lot for the Arthur’s Rock Trail.

76 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Arthur's Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1 5
Warmup Layback
Boulder
V2 5+
Drunken Master
Boulder
V3 6A
Shady Arete
Boulder
V3 6A
Pinchy Warmup
Boulder
V5 6C
Last Resort
Boulder
V5 6C
Mainstreet
Boulder
V6 7A
The Syringe
Boulder
V7 7A+
Godzilla
Boulder
V7 7A+
Snake and the Skewer
Boulder
V8 7B
Ode to Failure
Boulder
V8 7B
Child Birth
Boulder
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blackish Blobs
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Right of Passage
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Edge Of Time
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tears of a Clown
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Warmup Layback Main Area (With B… > Warm-Up Boulder V1 5 Boulder
Drunken Master Main Area (With B… > Drunken Master Boulder V2 5+ Boulder
Shady Arete Main Area (With B… > Warm-Up Boulder V3 6A Boulder
Pinchy Warmup Main Area (With B… > Warm-Up Boulder V3 6A Boulder
Last Resort Main Area (With B… > Drunken Master Boulder V5 6C Boulder
Mainstreet Main Area (With B… > Godzilla Boulder V5 6C Boulder
The Syringe Main Area (With B… > Syringe Boulder V6 7A Boulder
Godzilla Main Area (With B… > Godzilla Boulder V7 7A+ Boulder
Snake and the Skewer Snake and the Skewer V7 7A+ Boulder
Ode to Failure Main Area (With B… > Drunken Master Boulder V8 7B Boulder
Child Birth Childbirth (Area at Arthur's Rock) V8 7B Boulder
Blackish Blobs S Face of Arthur's Rock 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Right of Passage S Face of Arthur's Rock 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Edge Of Time S Face of Arthur's Rock 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Tears of a Clown Childbirth (Area at Arthur's Rock) 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, TR
More Classic Climbs in Arthur's Rock »

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Found: TC Pro (just one!) on trail coming out of bouldering area 9/13. Lemme know if it's yours! Sep 15, 2017
Ben Scott
Fort Collins, CO
Ben Scott   Fort Collins, CO
AJ Cohen
Fort Collins, CO
AJ Cohen   Fort Collins, CO
Does anyone know what route this is? We saw it when we were climbing 125. There's 4 bolts and a 2-chain anchor, so figured there's gotta be some beta on it somewhere?
Feb 19, 2017
nruea
. . . CO
nruea   . . . CO
Yes. . . and mixed lines. . . and sometimes ice! Dec 13, 2013
Greg Speer
Fort Collins, CO
Greg Speer   Fort Collins, CO
Any trad routes at Arthur's? Apr 10, 2010
I added this area in hopes of something bigger and better arising. I don't know enough about the area other than a few problems. It's worth the visit. Please help add problems and pictures if you know the area. Feb 21, 2009

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