Elevation: 6,293 ft
GPS: 40.566, -105.188 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 104,781 total · 744/month
Shared By: martin tikusis on Feb 21, 2009
Admins: James Schroeder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Raptor Closures - May 15 - July 31 Details

Description

While Fort Collins' locals have been climbing at Arthur’s Rock for decades, the main development phase of bouldering began in 1999, led by Pat Goodman. Since then, Arthur’s Rock has remained a cherished and hidden gem frequented by locals but largely unknown to the larger climbing community.

This is a great area for Winter, Spring, and Fall. Conditions can be excellent here in the coldest of winter months due to the sunny, south-facing aspect of the hillside and cliff. There are rattlesnakes in the summer, and it is generally too hot to climb here. Arthur's Rock is most known for its bouldering, but it also has a small collection of trad and sport routes.

The rock quality at Arthur’s Rock has been described as being anywhere from total choss to a granite technician's dream. Mostly a granite conglomerate of several rock types, the climbing tends to be fingery and requires very technical footwork. Small edges, gritty slopers, and the occasional pink knob are the norm for grips around Arthur’s Rock.

Check out the comprehensive, online, free to print, guidebook by NC3 here here. The printed version of the Lory State Park Guidebook is now available at the Lory State Park Visitors Center, Jax Outdoor Gear, and Miramont Fitness North.

The NCCC has worked with Lory State Park to establish the Arthur's Rock Fixed Anchor Initiative. Replacement of old fixed anchors and establishment of new routes that require fixed anchors is now possible through an application process. Please consult the Lory State Park Guidebook for more information.

Getting There

From downtown Fort Collins, head west on Laporte Ave. until it ends. Turn right on Overland Trail, and head north for approximately 2.5 miles. Turn left on Bingham Hill Rd/Co Rd 50E, and go west for 2.0 miles. Turn left onto N Co Rd 23 for 1.2 miles and finally a right onto N Co Rd 25 G. Take 25G for 1.6 miles until you reach the gate for the park. There are signs for Lory State Park after the Bingham Hill turn off Overland Trail.

From the Park entrance, proceed to the Visitor's Center to pay for your day or annual pass. From there, continue down the main road (Lodgepole Dr.) until it dead ends at the parking lot for the Arthur's Rock Trail.

88 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Arthur's Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V2 5+
 6
Drunken Master
Boulder
V5 6C
 12
Last Resort
Boulder
V5 6C
 16
Mainstreet
Boulder
V5 6C
 3
Voodoo Lady
Boulder
V6 7A
 19
The Syringe
Boulder
V7 7A+
 13
Godzilla
Boulder
V7 7A+
 10
Snake and the Skewer
Boulder
V8 7B
 14
Ode to Failure
Boulder
V8 7B
 5
Child Birth
Boulder
V10 7C+
 6
Added Planet
Boulder
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 29
Black Dog
Sport, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 37
Right of Passage
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 15
Mossy Moe
Sport, TR
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 8
The Giggle Maker
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 11
Tears of a Clown
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Drunken Master Main Area (With… > Drunken Master Boulder
 6
V2 5+ Boulder
Last Resort Main Area (With… > Drunken Master Boulder
 12
V5 6C Boulder
Mainstreet Main Area (With… > Godzilla Boulder
 16
V5 6C Boulder
Voodoo Lady Parking Lot Wall (Art…
 3
V5 6C Boulder
The Syringe Main Area (With… > Syringe Boulder
 19
V6 7A Boulder
Godzilla Main Area (With… > Godzilla Boulder
 13
V7 7A+ Boulder
Snake and the Skewer Snake & the Skewer
 10
V7 7A+ Boulder
Ode to Failure Main Area (With… > Drunken Master Boulder
 14
V8 7B Boulder
Child Birth Childbirth (Area at A…
 5
V8 7B Boulder
Added Planet Main Area (With… > Drunken Master Boulder
 6
V10 7C+ Boulder
Black Dog Overlook (Arthur's Rock)
 29
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
Right of Passage S Face of Arthur's Rock
 37
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Mossy Moe Overlook (Arthur's Rock)
 15
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, TR
The Giggle Maker Overlook (Arthur's Rock)
 8
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Tears of a Clown Childbirth (Area at A…
 11
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, TR
More Classic Climbs in Arthur's Rock »

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