Main Area Bouldering
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Elevation: | 6,295 ft | 1,919 m |
GPS: |
40.56581, -105.18778 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 47,281 total · 457/month | |
Shared By: | Jesse Ryan on Jun 6, 2016 | |
Admins: | James Schroeder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Raptor Closures
Details
2022: South Face closures from May 15 - July 31.
Per Charlie Martz: raptor closures (peregrine falcons) are in effect in 2021: the South Face climbing area is impacted by these closures starting March 15th from The Great Corner (west side of S. Face) across the South Face to Sunrise. . . and includes the top of the rock (above the climbs, not the hike to the "summit") and the descent trail.
Per Citsalp: raptor closures (peregrine falcons) are in effect in 2019: the South Face climbing area is impacted by these closures May 15 - July 31 from Blackish Blobs (west side of S. Face) across the South Face to Sunday Morning. . . and these include the top of the rock (above the climbs, not the hike to the "summit") and the descent trail. Other climbing areas should remain open.
Per Charlie Martz: raptor closures (peregrine falcons) are in effect in 2021: the South Face climbing area is impacted by these closures starting March 15th from The Great Corner (west side of S. Face) across the South Face to Sunrise. . . and includes the top of the rock (above the climbs, not the hike to the "summit") and the descent trail.
Per Citsalp: raptor closures (peregrine falcons) are in effect in 2019: the South Face climbing area is impacted by these closures May 15 - July 31 from Blackish Blobs (west side of S. Face) across the South Face to Sunday Morning. . . and these include the top of the rock (above the climbs, not the hike to the "summit") and the descent trail. Other climbing areas should remain open.
Description
The reason(s) you came to Arthur's Rock to boulder lie here. This primary area is a grouping of some 15+ boulders that hold some of the best problems Arthur's Rock has to offer. With the exception of a few boulders, you will be primarily south of the bouldering access trail. Located below the access trail are classics like the Godzilla Boulder, Syringe Boulder, and the Warm-up Boulder. You will find shade in the forest on the north faces or some sun on the southern aspects.
Notable climbs in this area include: The Vice, Brick Pinch, Godzilla, Mainstreet, Ode to Failure, The Syringe, and Last Resort.
Notable climbs in this area include: The Vice, Brick Pinch, Godzilla, Mainstreet, Ode to Failure, The Syringe, and Last Resort.
Getting There
Hike up the Arthur's Rock Trail until you reach the bouldering access trail, perhaps 20 minutes. Head up this trail passing the Fog That Surrounds area. Above this, there are two access trails that head downhill to the left. The first trail heads down to the southern sides of Drunken Master and Warm-Up Boulders. The second leads down to the north Side of the Warm-Up and Drunken Master Boulders, as well as the Syringe Boulder.
On the first access trail - on the east and south sides of the Drunken Master Boulder - you will pass problems such as Last Resort, Brick Pinch, Double Stack, before the boulder slabs out into the solo/highball Drunken Master. The next boulder downhill is the Warm-Up Boulder's South face with the Warm Ups, Clutch, and Le Crimp. Next to this is Mole People. If you circle right and uphill around the Warm-Up Boulder, you will reach the amphitheater with The Vice (on the Warm-Up Boulder), Syringe (on its own boulder to the west), and Ode to Failure (on the west side of Drunken Master Boulder). The second downhill trail heads directly from Shotput to this spot. Mount Olympus is just uphill from The Syringe, and further west and a little uphill is the Arete Boulder.
To reach Godzilla and Hank's Roof, follow a trail downhill from the Warm-Up Boulder by Clutch. Sister Boulder lies just downhill from Godzilla. The Beast Boulder, Crystal Pinch Boulder, and the Lizard Boulder are around the east side of the Godzilla Boulder and a little uphill.
On the first access trail - on the east and south sides of the Drunken Master Boulder - you will pass problems such as Last Resort, Brick Pinch, Double Stack, before the boulder slabs out into the solo/highball Drunken Master. The next boulder downhill is the Warm-Up Boulder's South face with the Warm Ups, Clutch, and Le Crimp. Next to this is Mole People. If you circle right and uphill around the Warm-Up Boulder, you will reach the amphitheater with The Vice (on the Warm-Up Boulder), Syringe (on its own boulder to the west), and Ode to Failure (on the west side of Drunken Master Boulder). The second downhill trail heads directly from Shotput to this spot. Mount Olympus is just uphill from The Syringe, and further west and a little uphill is the Arete Boulder.
To reach Godzilla and Hank's Roof, follow a trail downhill from the Warm-Up Boulder by Clutch. Sister Boulder lies just downhill from Godzilla. The Beast Boulder, Crystal Pinch Boulder, and the Lizard Boulder are around the east side of the Godzilla Boulder and a little uphill.
Classic Climbing Routes at Main Area
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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