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Routes in Warm-Up Boulder

Clutch (aka Double Clutch) V7 7A+
Pinchy Warmup V3 6A
Shady Arete V3 6A
Sherman Pinch Problem V2 5+
Vice, The V10 7C+
Warmup Layback V1 5
Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: Francis Sanzarro?
Page Views: 1,542 total, 15/month
Shared By: Damon Vaughan on Apr 3, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a really fun problem that proved to be a lot more deceiving than I thought at first. Sit start with a left hand pinch and your choice of right handholds. Finagle your way up to two jugs beneath the roof, and do a big move around the roof and top it out.

Location

This problem is the second to the left one on the first obvious huge boulder you come to (a bit past the problem "Godzilla"). There are a couple of warmups to the right.

Protection

Two pads would probably do it.

Photos

Winston Elliott  
  V2+
I think we can all agree at least that Damon Vaugh(a)n is a self-aggrandizing grade-inflator, who obviously has not heard of a heel hook...? Mar 27, 2017
JAtkinson
  V7
JAtkinson  
  V7
Did this one for the first time today (using the jugs). The first few moves were considerably harder than surpassing the roof which, using the jugs, felt like 5.9 if you're 6 foot tall and have heard of a heel hook. Dec 6, 2016
Ben Scott
Fort Collins, CO
Ben Scott   Fort Collins, CO
The original sequence to this problem was fully contrived to get the 8 points. The starting hold is correct but the following "jugs" to the right were considered off. Starting matched on the mostly lefthand pinch you would move up and right to the chalked gaston. Then left to a worse gaston, high foot and move into an undercling that most people don't even know exists. Then a big move up and left to the slot/horizontal but not the jug to the right. Match the slot and do the hard jump move, especially without that jug for your right hand.

FA: Francis Sanzarro. Jun 17, 2011
I'm not real tall (5' 10") but have a +4 ape index, and this was at the limit of my reach.

I thought the crux was controlling the huge swing after your feet cut loose once you grab the jug above the roof. The first time I stuck the jug, I wasn't ready for the swing and ended up at least 10' down the hill. Jun 16, 2011
Yeah. Watch the ivy...I got it least twice...don't wear shorts. Jun 16, 2011
Jordan: your hands hang to your ankles, don't sell yourself short. Thanks to our friends putting some effort into getting Arthur's listed properly on MP, glad to see it getting some of the respect it deserves. BTW: watch the ivy.... May 21, 2011
Chip Phillips
Broomfield, CO
Chip Phillips   Broomfield, CO
FWIW, this problem has historically been known as "Clutch" (not Double Clutch).

There is another problem much further to the right known as Double Stack. Maybe that is part of the confusion. Apr 8, 2010
I agree. With long arms it may feel more like V7. Apr 23, 2009
I had always considered this to be V7, but I have some lanky arms and a pretty good reach so this problems is really kinda height dependent. Farther right, as mentioned, there are some good 2s and 3s. Also, some TOUGH problems located on the severely overhanging rock 100 yards right. Apr 17, 2009