Elevation: 6,553 ft
GPS: 40.567, -105.187 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 29,678 total · 327/month
Shared By: Ben Scott on Feb 20, 2013 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: James Schroeder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Raptor Closures - May 15 - July 31 Details
Access Issue: 2017 Raptor Closures Details

Description

The South Face of Arthur's Rock is an incredible, 150-200 foot, overhanging, granite dome. Fort Collins locals have climbed on this obvious cliff ever since Lory State Park opened in 1975.

The climbing on Arthur's Rock is generally traditional in nature, with most climbs following obvious crack systems with ample natural protection.

Thanks to the work of the NCCC with Lory State Park (LSP), a Fixed Anchor Initiative has been put in place. This initiative allows for the replacement of old anchors and installation of fixed anchors for new routes through an application process.

Please consult the Lory State Park Rock Climbing guide for more information:
nococlimbing.org/guidebooks…

RAPTOR CLOSURE MARCH 15 - JULY 31
The closure is for peregrine's nesting/breeding on the South wall of Arthur's, above the trail. Essentially all routes east of, and including, The Great Corner will be affected, to include the climber's descent "trail".

All routes west of The Great Corner are unaffected by the present closure.

Getting There

To reach the South Face, hike up the ArthurÂ’s Rock Trail for about 45-60 minutes. After you pass the Childbirth and Valhalla Boulders, the South Face is in view and off the trail on climberÂ’s right.

20 Total Climbs

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Location: South Face of Arthur's Rock Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at South Face of Arthur's Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 4
Sunrise
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 7
Sunset (submitted as Mole Rat Cr…
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 4
Sunday Morning Coming Down
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 29
Blackish Blobs
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 37
Right of Passage
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 5
Big, Bad Book
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 8
Intestinal Fortitude
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 10
Edge Of Time
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 5
Excellent Adventure
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 15
Goldeneye
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 3
Doom Corner
Trad, Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 7
Rocksie Rocks
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 6
Owl Roof
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Sunrise
 4
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Sunset (submitted as Mole R…
 7
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Sunday Morning Coming Down
 4
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Blackish Blobs
 29
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Right of Passage
 37
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Big, Bad Book
 5
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Intestinal Fortitude
 8
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Edge Of Time
 10
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Excellent Adventure
 5
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Goldeneye
 15
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
Doom Corner
 3
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad, Sport
Rocksie Rocks
 7
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Owl Roof
 6
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in South Face of Arthur's Rock »

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