South Face of Arthur's Rock Rock Climbing
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|Shared By:||Ben Scott on Feb 20, 2013 · Updates|
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Per Citsalp: raptor closures (peregrine falcons) are in effect in 2019: the South Face climbing area is impacted by these closures May 15 - July 31 from Blackish Blobs (west side of S. Face) across the South Face to Sunday Morning. . . and these include the top of the rock (above the climbs, not the hike to the "summit") and the descent trail. Other climbing areas should remain open.
Per Rodney Ley 1: as of 21 May 2016, there is a Prairie Falcon (possibly Peregrine) nest with eggs at the top of this route (Sunday Morning Coming Down) area. The Lory State Park staff have placed a "Trail Closed" sign near the approach, but they don't mention it is for raptor protection.
Please avoid until mid-summer, perhaps the park staff will remove the sign when the birds have moved on.
The climbing on Arthur's Rock is generally traditional in nature, with most climbs following obvious crack systems with ample natural protection.
Thanks to the work of the NCCC with Lory State Park (LSP), a Fixed Anchor Initiative has been put in place. This initiative allows for the replacement of old anchors and installation of fixed anchors for new routes through an application process.
Please consult the Lory State Park Rock Climbing guide for more information:
RAPTOR CLOSURE MARCH 15 - JULY 31
The closure is for peregrine's nesting/breeding on the South wall of Arthur's, above the trail. Essentially all routes east of, and including, The Great Corner will be affected, to include the climber's descent "trail".
All routes west of The Great Corner are unaffected by the present closure.
Classic Climbing Routes at South Face of Arthur's Rock
Days w Precip