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Routes in South Face of Arthur's Rock

Big, Bad Book T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blackish Blobs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Corridor Project S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Doom Corner T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Edge Of Time S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Excellent Adventure S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Front Gate T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Goldeneye S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Great Corner, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Variant, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Intestinal Fortitude S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kiddy Pool S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Owl Roof S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Right of Passage T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rocksie Rocks S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sunday Morning Coming Down T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sunrise T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sunset (submitted as Mole Rat Crack) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Water Fountain TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Elevation: 6,553 ft
GPS: 40.567, -105.187 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 15,494 total, 264/month
Shared By: Ben Scott on Feb 20, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description

The South Face of Arthur's Rock is an incredible, 150-200 foot, overhanging, granite dome. Fort Collins locals have climbed on this obvious cliff ever since Lory State Park opened in 1975.

The climbing on Arthur's Rock is generally traditional in nature, with most climbs following obvious crack systems with ample natural protection.

Thanks to the work of the NCCC with Lory State Park (LSP), a Fixed Anchor Initiative has been put in place. This initiative allows for the replacement of old anchors and installation of fixed anchors for new routes through an application process.

Please consult the Lory State Park Rock Climbing guide for more information:
nococlimbing.org/guidebooks…

RAPTOR CLOSURE MARCH 15 - JULY 31
The closure is for peregrine's nesting/breeding on the South wall of Arthur's, above the trail. Essentially all routes east of, and including, The Great Corner will be affected, to include the climber's descent "trail".

All routes west of The Great Corner are unaffected by the present closure.
2017 Raptor Closures Details

Getting There

To reach the South Face, hike up the ArthurÂ’s Rock Trail for about 45-60 minutes. After you pass the Childbirth and Valhalla Boulders, the South Face is in view and off the trail on climberÂ’s right.

19 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at South Face of Arthur's Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Ben Scott
Fort Collins, CO
Ben Scott   Fort Collins, CO
Yes, most of the South Face is closed until the end of July.
The closure involves all routes from the Great Corner to Sunday Morning Comedown.

Blackish Blobs, Excellent Adventure, Tears of a Clown, Gravities Rainbow and all of the bouldering are open during the closure.

Please respect the closure and have fun up there!

-NCCC Jun 13, 2016
I lost a pair of I think size 8 Scarpa rock climbing shoes. Tey are yellow, and if found, call 970-222-4401. Thanks. Mar 24, 2014

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