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Routes in South Face of Arthur's Rock

Big, Bad Book T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blackish Blobs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Corridor Project S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Doom Corner T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Edge Of Time S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Excellent Adventure S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Front Gate T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Goldeneye S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Great Corner, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Variant, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Intestinal Fortitude S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kiddy Pool S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Owl Roof S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Right of Passage T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rocksie Rocks S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sunday Morning Coming Down T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sunrise T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sunset (submitted as Mole Rat Crack) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Water Fountain TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: D. McKee, B. Scott, as an aid route "Late-night Horror Show, A3+", Dave Bohn?, 1973
Page Views: 844 total · 14/month
Shared By: Ben Scott on Feb 20, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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2017 Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route was installed thanks to the Arthur's Rock Fixed Anchor Initiative (2013).
Please consult the Lory State Park Rock Climbing guide for more information:
nococlimbing.org/portfolio/…

This is a daunting, two pitch climb right up the heart of the South Face of Arthur’s Rock.

P1: (5.11b) Climb a broken crack system to gain the bottom of a pillar and the first bolt. Continue up the pillar until you reach a left-leaning crack/corner. Continue up the crack placing a #4 Camalot before launching into the bolt protected crux. A short handcrack leads to the anchor from there.

P2: (5.11) Traverse left from the belay and pull the short, roof crack feature. Over the roof, continue moving up and right, following the crack feature to reach the summit.

History
Referred to as the "Old Aid Route" by some people, it was rumored that this was a Mark Wilford route, but it was never confirmed. Apparently a climber named Rob Upton died on this route years ago. There is a plaque on a large boulder near the base of the climb dedicated to him. If you have any other info, please chime in.

Location

To reach the South Face, hike up the Arthur’s Rock Trail for about 45-60 minutes. After you pass the Childbirth and Valhalla Boulders, the South Face is in view and off the trail on climber’s right.

Protection

P1: 3 bolts and a standard rack including a crucial #4 BD. 2-bolt chain anchor for lowering.

P2: standard rack, there is no anchor on top. Walk off only.

Photos

I only did the first pitch, so I will refrain from officially rating this one, but keeping in mind quality of movement, stone, and position, I found the first pitch of this to be of similar quality as its neighbor, Doom Book. 3 stars seems fair to me, as does 5.11b. Dec 7, 2015
Ben Scott
Fort Collins, CO
 
Ben Scott   Fort Collins, CO
 
Thanks for the history, Dave.

PM me if you want to get out climbing sometime.... Mar 5, 2013
Yes, this is an old aid route. I thought it ~A3+ back in '73 when I first climbed it with a mix of primitive nuts and iron. I called it "Late-night Horror Show".

Again, I can't say I was the first, but there were no other pin scars when I climbed it. Feb 27, 2013