All Locations > Colorado > Ft Collins > Lory SP > Arthur's Rock > S Face of Arthur's Rock

Front Gate

Name: Front Gate
Rating: 1.4

5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British

Routes in South Face of Arthur's Rock

L › R R › L A › Z

	Big, Bad Book T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Blackish Blobs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Corridor Project S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Doom Corner T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Edge Of Time S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Excellent Adventure S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Front Gate T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Goldeneye S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Great Corner, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Great Variant, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Intestinal Fortitude S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Kiddy Pool S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Mono Matt T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Owl Roof S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Right of Passage T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Rocksie Rocks S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Sunday Morning Coming Down T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Sunrise T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Sunset (submitted as Mole Rat Crack) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Water Fountain TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

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Type:	Trad, 50 ft (15 m)
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	1,878 total · 15/month
Shared By:	Ben Scott on Feb 20, 2013
Admins:	James Schroeder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details

2022: South Face closures from May 15 - July 31.

Per Charlie Martz: raptor closures (peregrine falcons) are in effect in 2021: the South Face climbing area is impacted by these closures starting March 15th from The Great Corner (west side of S. Face) across the South Face to Sunrise. . . and includes the top of the rock (above the climbs, not the hike to the "summit") and the descent trail.

Per Citsalp: raptor closures (peregrine falcons) are in effect in 2019: the South Face climbing area is impacted by these closures May 15 - July 31 from Blackish Blobs (west side of S. Face) across the South Face to Sunday Morning. . . and these include the top of the rock (above the climbs, not the hike to the "summit") and the descent trail. Other climbing areas should remain open.

Access Issue: 2017 Raptor Closures Details

Per garrett K: The South face of Arthur's Rock is currently CLOSED for raptor nesting as of 4/7/17.

Per Rodney Ley 1: as of 21 May 2016, there is a Prairie Falcon (possibly Peregrine) nest with eggs at the top of this route (Sunday Morning Coming Down) area. The Lory State Park staff have placed a "Trail Closed" sign near the approach, but they don't mention it is for raptor protection.

Please avoid until mid-summer, perhaps the park staff will remove the sign when the birds have moved on.

Description

After reaching the East Side Ledge, locate a large boulder below a short, left-facing corner/groove. Climb this groove directly to the Right of Passage belay, or cut up and left on slabby terrain to reach the Edge of Time/Intestinal Fortitude anchor.

Descent: rappel approximately 20m from either anchor back to the East Side Ledge or the ground.

Location

To reach the South Face, hike up the Arthurs Rock Trail for about 45-60 minutes. After you pass the Childbirth and Valhalla Boulders, the South Face is in view and off the trail on climbers right.