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Routes in South Face of Arthur's Rock

Big, Bad Book T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blackish Blobs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Corridor Project S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Doom Corner T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Edge Of Time S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Excellent Adventure S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Front Gate T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Goldeneye S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Great Corner, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Variant, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Intestinal Fortitude S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kiddy Pool S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Owl Roof S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Right of Passage T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rocksie Rocks S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sunday Morning Coming Down T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sunrise T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sunset (submitted as Mole Rat Crack) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Water Fountain TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: C. Tirrell, B. Scott
Page Views: 1,660 total, 28/month
Shared By: Ben Scott on Feb 20, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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2017 Raptor Closures Details


This route was installed thanks to the Arthur's Rock Fixed Anchor Initiative (2013).

Please consult the Lory State Park Rock Climbing guide for more information:…

To reach the belay, climb the first pitch of Right of Passage or Front Gate. From the anchor, climb up and left on good edges, crimps and sidepulls. Climb a short slab to the final headwall/arête. The last move before the anchor is the crux of the entire route. This tricky/reachy move can be aided through, giving the route a (5.11a A0) rating.


To reach the South Face, hike up the Arthur’s Rock Trail for about 45-60 minutes. After you pass the Childbirth and Valhalla Boulders, the South Face is in view and off the trail on climber’s right.


9 bolts and a 2-bolt chain anchor.


Owen Murphy
Fort Collins, CO
Owen Murphy   Fort Collins, CO
Rad climb. My buddy I weren't sure what this route was when we got on it but loved it as soon as we did. Good exposure on small holds and a tough last move.

Definitely noted a couple loose nuts up there on 2 of the bolts by hand turning them. I didn't have a wrench, but I'll be bringing one with me next time I go up there. Apr 17, 2015
Michael Botkin
Fort Collins, CO
Michael Botkin   Fort Collins, CO
What an amazing route, as previously stated, seriously awesome. 10+/11- climbing until the last move and probably the best exposure you can get at Arthur's. A must do. Apr 11, 2014
Ol Toby
Ol Toby   CA
This route is awesome! Great position and fun climbing to a tricky reach at the lip. Mar 16, 2013