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Routes in South Face of Arthur's Rock

Big, Bad Book T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blackish Blobs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Corridor Project S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Doom Corner T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Edge Of Time S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Excellent Adventure S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Front Gate T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Goldeneye S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Great Corner, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Variant, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Intestinal Fortitude S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kiddy Pool S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Owl Roof S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Right of Passage T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rocksie Rocks S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sunday Morning Coming Down T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sunrise T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sunset (submitted as Mole Rat Crack) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Water Fountain TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,525 total · 25/month
Shared By: Mitchell Hodge on Oct 30, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: 2017 Raptor Closures Details


This is a long, single pitch route to the east of 'Right of Passage' following discontinuous crack systems. There are plenty of places for gear along low angle climbing. Save some hand size gear for the belay at the top, and remember to bring plenty of long slings to avoid horrible rope drag.


The start is a dirty looking crack directly above a large boulder, east of 'Right of Passage.'

(Rock quality improves after first crack system.)


Standard rack to a #3 C4, with additional long slings.


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Rodney Ley 1
Fort Collins, Colorado
Rodney Ley 1   Fort Collins, Colorado
Raptor Closure--May 20 to July ?, 2016

As of 21 May 2016, there is a Peregrine Falcon nest with eggs at the top of this route area. The Lory State Park staff have placed a "Trail Closed" sign near the approach, but they don't mention it is for raptor protection.

Please avoid until mid-summer, perhaps the park staff will remove the sign when the birds have moved on.

BTW: I checked the Lory State Park website and no mention of this closure (either as a trail or a climb) was mentioned. May 21, 2016

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