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Routes in South Face of Arthur's Rock

Big, Bad Book T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blackish Blobs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Corridor Project S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Doom Corner T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Edge Of Time S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Excellent Adventure S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Front Gate T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Goldeneye S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Great Corner, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Variant, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Intestinal Fortitude S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kiddy Pool S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Owl Roof S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Right of Passage T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rocksie Rocks S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sunday Morning Coming Down T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sunrise T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sunset (submitted as Mole Rat Crack) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Water Fountain TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: B. Beavers, B. Scott
Page Views: 3,902 total, 67/month
Shared By: Ben Scott on Feb 20, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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2017 Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route was installed thanks to the Arthur's Rock Fixed Anchor Initiative (2013).
Please consult the Lory State Park Rock Climbing guide for more information:
nococlimbing.org/portfolio/…

P1: (5.7) After reaching the East Side Ledge, locate a short crack/groove feature leading to the first bolt. Climb this groove using a slung flake for protection, continue past two bolts (P1 crux) before moving up and left on low-angle terrain to a two-bolt anchor.

P2: (5.9) Climb up a small ramp and clip the first bolt. Make a big move back left to a jug (P2 crux) before manteling into an easy crack feature. Continue following the crack feature as it traverses left until it ends at a steep bulge. Pull over this bulge to reach the 2nd pitch anchor.

Descent: perform two 20m rappels to reach the Arthur’s Rock Trail, or use the walk-off trail to reach the base of the climb.

Location

To reach the South Face, hike up the Arthur’s Rock Trail for about 45-60 minutes. After you pass the Childbirth and Valhalla Boulders, the South Face is in view and off the trail on climber’s right.

Protection

4 bolts and a standard rack. There are 2 sets of 2-bolt chain anchors.

Photos

tkessel Kessel
Windsor,CO
  5.9+
tkessel Kessel   Windsor,CO
  5.9+
Super fun climb! The second pitch is money. Jan 30, 2017
Ben Scott
Fort Collins, CO
 
Ben Scott   Fort Collins, CO
 
Hey Garrett,

Yeah you definitely need a small trad rack to climb this route. Both pitches require trad gear to supplement the bolts.

Have fun and be safe! Feb 15, 2016
Is it possible to climb this with just quickdraws (and a rope obviously)? It doesn't seem like there are a lot of bolts from the description. Feb 14, 2016
Ryan De
Fort Collins, CO
 
Ryan De   Fort Collins, CO
 
Super fun climb on the second pitch with good exposure! Apr 19, 2015
nruea
. . . CO
 
nruea   . . . CO
 
Great climb! A good 5.9 lead. Love the location too. Dec 13, 2013
Man, Arthur's Rock has great potential for gear and sport lines. Right of Passage has fun moves ranging from a slightly overhung start to pitch 2, as well as techy slab moves at the top of pitch 1. The finishing traverse has much exposure with good gear, with one of the best views for a top-out belay. Bring a camera. Sep 30, 2013
Joe Varela  
 
The left-leaning traverse at the end of p2 is fun. Sep 22, 2013
Katy90
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Katy90   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Fun climb close to home. We left Fort Collins around 4:00 pm and were able to hike up and climb these pitches with daylight to spare. Didn't see a great sling placement on the first pitch, but was well protected with a #2 Metolius. Pitch 2 has a more bouldery start and ends with an exciting traverse (great jugs along the way). Awesome view of Horsetooth and FC from the top! Still some loose rock, so wear a helmet :-). Jul 21, 2013
Ol Toby
CA
  5.9
Ol Toby   CA
  5.9
Super fun romp up the slabby face. Destined to become a local moderate classic! Jul 10, 2013