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Routes in South Face of Arthur's Rock
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Big, Bad Book T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Blackish Blobs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Corridor Project S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Doom Corner T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Edge Of Time S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Excellent Adventure S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Front Gate T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Goldeneye S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Great Corner, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Great Variant, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Intestinal Fortitude S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Kiddy Pool S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mono Matt T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Owl Roof S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Right of Passage T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rocksie Rocks S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Sunday Morning Coming Down T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sunrise T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Sunset (submitted as Mole Rat Crack) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Water Fountain TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Trad, Sport, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | B. Beavers, B. Scott |
| Page Views: | 6,709 total · 54/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Scott on Feb 20, 2013 |
| Admins: | James Schroeder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Raptor Closures
Details
Per Charlie Martz: raptor closures (peregrine falcons) are in effect in 2021: the South Face climbing area is impacted by these closures starting March 15th from The Great Corner (west side of S. Face) across the South Face to Sunrise. . . and includes the top of the rock (above the climbs, not the hike to the "summit") and the descent trail.
Per Citsalp: raptor closures (peregrine falcons) are in effect in 2019: the South Face climbing area is impacted by these closures May 15 - July 31 from Blackish Blobs (west side of S. Face) across the South Face to Sunday Morning. . . and these include the top of the rock (above the climbs, not the hike to the "summit") and the descent trail. Other climbing areas should remain open.
Access Issue: 2017 Raptor Closures
Details
Per Rodney Ley 1: as of 21 May 2016, there is a Prairie Falcon (possibly Peregrine) nest with eggs at the top of this route (Sunday Morning Coming Down) area. The Lory State Park staff have placed a "Trail Closed" sign near the approach, but they don't mention it is for raptor protection.
Please avoid until mid-summer, perhaps the park staff will remove the sign when the birds have moved on.
Description
This route was installed thanks to the Arthur's Rock Fixed Anchor Initiative (2013).
Please consult the Lory State Park Rock Climbing guide for more information:
http://nococlimbing.org/portfolio/arthurs-rock-bouldering-guide/
P1 (5.7). After reaching the East Side Ledge, locate a short crack/groove feature leading to the first bolt. Climb this groove using a slung flake for protection, continue past two bolts (P1 crux) before moving up and left on low-angle terrain to a two-bolt anchor.
P2 (5.9). Climb up a small ramp, and clip the first bolt. Make a big move back left to a jug (P2 crux) before manteling into an easy crack feature. Continue following the crack feature as it traverses left until it ends at a steep bulge. Pull over this bulge to reach the 2nd pitch anchor.
Descent: perform two 20m rappels to reach the Arthur's Rock Trail, or use the walkoff trail to reach the base of the climb.
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