Avg: 2.8 from 39 votes
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||B. Beavers, B. Scott|
|Page Views:||6,206 total · 59/month|
|Shared By:||Ben Scott on Feb 20, 2013|
|Admins:||James Schroeder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Per Citsalp: raptor closures (peregrine falcons) are in effect in 2019: the South Face climbing area is impacted by these closures May 15 - July 31 from Blackish Blobs (west side of S. Face) across the South Face to Sunday Morning. . . and these include the top of the rock (above the climbs, not the hike to the "summit") and the descent trail. Other climbing areas should remain open.
Per Rodney Ley 1: as of 21 May 2016, there is a Prairie Falcon (possibly Peregrine) nest with eggs at the top of this route (Sunday Morning Coming Down) area. The Lory State Park staff have placed a "Trail Closed" sign near the approach, but they don't mention it is for raptor protection.
Please avoid until mid-summer, perhaps the park staff will remove the sign when the birds have moved on.
This route was installed thanks to the Arthur's Rock Fixed Anchor Initiative (2013).
Please consult the Lory State Park Rock Climbing guide for more information:
P1 (5.7). After reaching the East Side Ledge, locate a short crack/groove feature leading to the first bolt. Climb this groove using a slung flake for protection, continue past two bolts (P1 crux) before moving up and left on low-angle terrain to a two-bolt anchor.
P2 (5.9). Climb up a small ramp, and clip the first bolt. Make a big move back left to a jug (P2 crux) before manteling into an easy crack feature. Continue following the crack feature as it traverses left until it ends at a steep bulge. Pull over this bulge to reach the 2nd pitch anchor.
Descent: perform two 20m rappels to reach the Arthur's Rock Trail, or use the walkoff trail to reach the base of the climb.
To reach the South Face, hike up the Arthur's Rock Trail for about 45-60 minutes. After you pass the Childbirth and Valhalla Boulders, the South Face is in view and off the trail on climber's right.