Type: Trad, Sport, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches
FA: B. Beavers, B. Scott
Page Views: 5,676 total · 61/month
Shared By: Ben Scott on Feb 20, 2013
Admins: James Schroeder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: Raptor Closures - May 15 - July 31 Details
Access Issue: 2017 Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route was installed thanks to the Arthur's Rock Fixed Anchor Initiative (2013).

Please consult the Lory State Park Rock Climbing guide for more information:

http://nococlimbing.org/portfolio/arthurs-rock-bouldering-guide/

P1 (5.7). After reaching the East Side Ledge, locate a short crack/groove feature leading to the first bolt. Climb this groove using a slung flake for protection, continue past two bolts (P1 crux) before moving up and left on low-angle terrain to a two-bolt anchor.

P2 (5.9). Climb up a small ramp, and clip the first bolt. Make a big move back left to a jug (P2 crux) before manteling into an easy crack feature. Continue following the crack feature as it traverses left until it ends at a steep bulge. Pull over this bulge to reach the 2nd pitch anchor.

Descent: perform two 20m rappels to reach the Arthur's Rock Trail, or use the walkoff trail to reach the base of the climb.

Location

To reach the South Face, hike up the Arthur's Rock Trail for about 45-60 minutes. After you pass the Childbirth and Valhalla Boulders, the South Face is in view and off the trail on climber's right.

Protection

4 bolts and a standard rack. There are 2 sets of 2-bolt chain anchors.

Photos