Type: Trad, Sport, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: B. Beavers, B. Scott
Page Views: 4,378 total · 62/month
Shared By: Ben Scott on Feb 20, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Access Issue: 2017 Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route was installed thanks to the Arthur's Rock Fixed Anchor Initiative (2013).
Please consult the Lory State Park Rock Climbing guide for more information:
nococlimbing.org/portfolio/…

P1: (5.7) After reaching the East Side Ledge, locate a short crack/groove feature leading to the first bolt. Climb this groove using a slung flake for protection, continue past two bolts (P1 crux) before moving up and left on low-angle terrain to a two-bolt anchor.

P2: (5.9) Climb up a small ramp and clip the first bolt. Make a big move back left to a jug (P2 crux) before manteling into an easy crack feature. Continue following the crack feature as it traverses left until it ends at a steep bulge. Pull over this bulge to reach the 2nd pitch anchor.

Descent: perform two 20m rappels to reach the Arthur’s Rock Trail, or use the walk-off trail to reach the base of the climb.

Location

To reach the South Face, hike up the Arthur’s Rock Trail for about 45-60 minutes. After you pass the Childbirth and Valhalla Boulders, the South Face is in view and off the trail on climber’s right.

Protection

4 bolts and a standard rack. There are 2 sets of 2-bolt chain anchors.

Photos

Ol Toby
CA
  5.9
Ol Toby   CA
  5.9
Super fun romp up the slabby face. Destined to become a local moderate classic! Jul 10, 2013
Katy90
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Katy90   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Fun climb close to home. We left Fort Collins around 4:00 pm and were able to hike up and climb these pitches with daylight to spare. Didn't see a great sling placement on the first pitch, but was well protected with a #2 Metolius. Pitch 2 has a more bouldery start and ends with an exciting traverse (great jugs along the way). Awesome view of Horsetooth and FC from the top! Still some loose rock, so wear a helmet :-). Jul 21, 2013
Joe Varela
Fort Collins, CO
 
Joe Varela   Fort Collins, CO
 
The left-leaning traverse at the end of p2 is fun. Sep 22, 2013
Man, Arthur's Rock has great potential for gear and sport lines. Right of Passage has fun moves ranging from a slightly overhung start to pitch 2, as well as techy slab moves at the top of pitch 1. The finishing traverse has much exposure with good gear, with one of the best views for a top-out belay. Bring a camera. Sep 30, 2013
nruea
. . . CO
 
nruea   . . . CO
 
Great climb! A good 5.9 lead. Love the location too. Dec 13, 2013
Ryan De
Fort Collins, CO
 
Ryan De   Fort Collins, CO
 
Super fun climb on the second pitch with good exposure! Apr 19, 2015
garrett knorr
fort collins
garrett knorr   fort collins
Is it possible to climb this with just quickdraws (and a rope obviously)? It doesn't seem like there are a lot of bolts from the description. Feb 14, 2016
Ben Scott
Fort Collins, CO
  5.9
Ben Scott   Fort Collins, CO
  5.9
Hey Garrett,

Yeah you definitely need a small trad rack to climb this route. Both pitches require trad gear to supplement the bolts.

Have fun and be safe! Feb 15, 2016
Tim Kessel
Fort Collins
  5.9+
Tim Kessel   Fort Collins
  5.9+
Super fun climb! The second pitch is money. Jan 30, 2017
IDK what I am doing
Fort Collins, CO
  5.9+
IDK what I am doing   Fort Collins, CO
  5.9+
The anchors for the second pitch as described in the guidebook are up and around the end of the of the bulge. We followed the bulge until it ended then up to a right-slanting crack. Follow the crack right to the anchors. If you keep traversing left and hit a set of anchors, you are on Intestinal Fortitude's anchors which is a hanging belay stance. They do work (probably not wise), but it requires some specialized belaying otherwise your follower can face a violent fall and swing on to those anchors which hopefully doesn't compromise the belayer's brake hand. To get the full value of the pitch, step up and (pretty much over those anchors) to the right-slanting crack above, and continue on for another 10ft. You can see the "proper" anchors for this route from Intestinal Fortitude's anchors. They are located just right of the right slanting crack above the bulge. I hope this helps! Nov 5, 2018