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Routes in South Face of Arthur's Rock

Big, Bad Book T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blackish Blobs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Corridor Project S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Doom Corner T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Edge Of Time S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Excellent Adventure S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Front Gate T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Goldeneye S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Great Corner, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Variant, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Intestinal Fortitude S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kiddy Pool S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Owl Roof S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Right of Passage T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rocksie Rocks S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sunday Morning Coming Down T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sunrise T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sunset (submitted as Mole Rat Crack) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Water Fountain TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: J. Tarry, B. Scott
Page Views: 1,246 total · 18/month
Shared By: Ben Scott on Feb 20, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: 2017 Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route was installed thanks to the Arthur's Rock Fixed Anchor Initiative (2013). Please consult the Lory State Park Rock Climbing guide for more information: nococlimbing.org/portfolio/…

This route climbs the undulating orange and green face between Doom Corner and The Great Corner. Start up an easy slab into technical terrain and the crux around bolts 4 and 5. Climb a short, right-facing corner that pulls a small roof, then continue up moderate but heads-up terrain to the anchor. A 70m ROPE is MANDATORY TO LOWER.

Location

To reach the South Face, hike up the ArthurÂ’s Rock Trail for about 45-60 minutes. After you pass the Childbirth and Valhalla Boulders, the South Face and Rocksie Rocks is in view and off the trail on climberÂ’s right.

Protection

10 bolts and a 2-bolt chain anchor.

Photos

Marty Wells
Fort Collins, CO
Marty Wells   Fort Collins, CO
Would the flake on the left be worth doing? It didn't look too tough but looked like it would be worth a shot. Mar 12, 2013
Ben Scott
Fort Collins, CO
  5.12d
Ben Scott   Fort Collins, CO
  5.12d
We re-climbed and upgraded this route on 4/25/15.

A few holds in the crux broke, and that increased the difficulty by quite a bit. Maybe we sandbagged it from the beginning? Who knows? Apr 28, 2015
Ryan Nelson
Fort Collins, CO
  5.12c
Ryan Nelson   Fort Collins, CO
  5.12c
Climbed this on 4/6/16. I broke a lot of holds and broke off another hold in the crux (still goes). The route is actually pretty clean now and is worth a lap. I thought this climb was easier than Owl Roof but more mentally engaging. Apr 6, 2016

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