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Routes in South Face of Arthur's Rock

Big, Bad Book T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blackish Blobs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Corridor Project S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Doom Corner T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Edge Of Time S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Excellent Adventure S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Front Gate T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Goldeneye S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Great Corner, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Variant, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Intestinal Fortitude S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kiddy Pool S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Owl Roof S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Right of Passage T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rocksie Rocks S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sunday Morning Coming Down T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sunrise T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sunset (submitted as Mole Rat Crack) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Water Fountain TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: B.Scott, J. Tarry
Page Views: 929 total, 21/month
Shared By: Ben Scott on Mar 26, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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2017 Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route was installed thanks to the Arthur's Rock Fixed Anchor Initiative (2014).

Please consult the Lory State Park Rock Climbing guide for more information:
http://nococlimbing.org/portfolio/arthurs-rock-bouldering-guide/

This is a tricky, little, short sport route with good rock and interesting movement. The crux comes right off the bat above the first bolt using opposing sidepull features. The next two bolts involve technical climbing on good edges to an easy slab.

Location

To reach the South Face, hike up the ArthurÂ’s Rock Trail for about 45-60 minutes. After you pass the Childbirth and Valhalla Boulders, the South Face is in view and off the trail on climberÂ’s right. From the base of the cliff, walk back East to reach Goldeneye.

Protection

3 bolts and a 2-bolt chain anchor.

Photos

Conor O
Fort Collins, Colorado
  5.11c/d
Conor O   Fort Collins, Colorado
  5.11c/d
Tricky, short climb, loved the footwork on this one! Jan 3, 2016
Ryan Nelson
Fort Collins, CO
  5.11b
Ryan Nelson   Fort Collins, CO
  5.11b
I'm 5'8"ish, and this is not harder than 11b. It consist of a single V2 crux at the third bolt. I whipped on my on-sight attempt, but once I was familiarized with the holds, it was chill city. Fun route! Great warm-up for the climbs uphill. May 29, 2015
Joe Forrester
Palo Alto
Joe Forrester   Palo Alto
Would agree on the 11d. Quite thin, balancy, and fun for such a short climb. Jun 17, 2014
Dylan Demyanek
Fort Collins, CO
  5.11d
Dylan Demyanek   Fort Collins, CO
  5.11d
I got on this yesterday, and it definitely was trickier than I expected. Sharp, small holds and a bit cryptic. I was straight up stumped at the third bolt - I couldn't find any holds to pull myself up to the slab on. I am about 5'10". Jun 11, 2014
Great little face climb! Just climbed it today. I'm about 5'7", and it's not reachy with the right type of mantle style footwork. Probably 11c/d. May 6, 2014
Michael Botkin
Fort Collins, CO
  5.11c/d
Michael Botkin   Fort Collins, CO
  5.11c/d
So short, so hard, definitely interested in others feedback on this one if you're under 6' and have a short wingspan. Apr 7, 2014