Type: Sport, 125 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dustin Stephens & Mark Grundon
Page Views: 947 total · 13/month
Shared By: Dustin Stephens on Jan 5, 2013
Admins: MAKB, Nate Ball, Ricardo Orozco, Rudy Peckham

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

On the steepest section of the Mota Wall is this sustained and technical line. 5.9 slab leads to an interesting tufa-drip section with some dual-arete slapping and very poor feet, followed by continuous technical moves on sidepulls, underclings, and a few perfect pockets leading to the anchor.

Location

Just left of La Vaca's 11+ upper section. Start on La Vaca's 5.9 slab and then continue straight up toward a black streak rather than trending right. Continue through 8 bolts of independent climbing then finish to the right and descend from La Vaca's anchor (upgraded to stainless steel in December 2012). Rap or lower to the first anchor, pull your rope, and rap or lower again. An 80-meter rope can sort-of-almost make it to the ground safely from the upper anchor if you move a bit uphill, so tie a knot in the end of the rope if going for the lower off from the top anchor

Protection

16 bolts

Photos

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Paul Irby
moab, ut
Paul Irby   moab, ut
nice job guys. about time someone climbed this sweet looking line. it's hard to believe la vaca went up over twenty years ago. i must be getting old! Feb 25, 2013
Dustin Stephens
  5.12b/c
Dustin Stephens  
  5.12b/c
Thanks! The tufa took some scrubbin but the climbing turned out to be worth it. Did you put up La Vaca? Great route! Feb 28, 2013
Paul Irby
moab, ut
Paul Irby   moab, ut
no, wasn't me. some dudes from indiana bolted that thing. I just happened to be there when it went up. That and cactus dancing were the first sport climbs on the mota wall which was formerly known as the Indiana Wall. Mar 3, 2013