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Güeros Rancheros
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3.8 from 12
votes
Routes in Mota Wall
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Abuelito Dime Tu S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Agujero del Espacio S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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All Fun and Games S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Beaver Heaver S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Bubble Boyz S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cactus Dancing S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cactus Pile S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Caguama Queen S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cloud Nine S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Crescent Moon AKA: Death of a Tradman T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Diez Algo S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Dope Ninja S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Double Cherry Pie S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Double Trouble S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Drillin' and Swillin' S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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El Grifo ('The Stoner') S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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El Viajero del Tiempo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Eldorado Chuy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Emilio's Posse S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fat Boy Slim S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Fear of a Curved Planet S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Fierce Invalids S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Flaming Bearded Lady, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Frenesi S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Güeros Rancheros S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Hey Buddy, Nice Cock S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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I Believe I Can Fly S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Juggalo S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Kelso's Way S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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King Mota S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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La Facil Facil S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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La Foresta S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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La Vaca ('The Cow') S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Leap of Faith S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lisa's Pizzas S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Monkey Boy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Motarola S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Motavation S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Motavision S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Mystery Niner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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New Wine T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Onward Through the Fog S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Pancho Villa Rides Again S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Paz Para Viequez S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Petting Zoo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pins and Needles S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Prophetess, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Red Helmet S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rusty's Crack S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sleepwalkin' S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Snott Girlz S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Soul Slinger S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Spies, Lies, and Naked Thighs S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Stone Groovin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Team Hilti S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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This Dog's Life S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Time Loves a Hero S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Tlaloc S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Toil for the Wind S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Treasure of the Sierra Madre S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Two Pumped Chump S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Ulf Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Uncle Crusty S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 130 ft (39 m) |
| FA: | Dustin Stephens & Mark Grundon |
| Page Views: | 2,003 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Dustin Stephens on Jan 5, 2013 · Updates |
| Admins: | Rudy Peckham, MAKB, Greg Hughes, Ricardo Orozco, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Description
On the steepest section of the Mota Wall is this sustained and technical line. 5.9 slab leads to an interesting tufa-drip section with some dual-arete slapping and very poor feet, followed by continuous technical moves on sidepulls, underclings, and a few perfect pockets leading to the anchor.
Location
Just left of La Vaca's 11+ upper section. Start on La Vaca's 5.9 slab and then continue straight up toward a black streak rather than trending right. Continue through 8 bolts of independent climbing then finish to the right and descend from La Vaca's anchor (upgraded to stainless steel in December 2012). Rap or lower to the first anchor, pull your rope, and rap or lower again. An 80-meter rope can sort-of-almost make it to the ground safely from the upper anchor if you move a bit uphill, so tie a knot in the end of the rope if going for the lower off from the top anchor
Photos
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