Type: Sport, 500 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Ed Wright
Page Views: 11,226 total · 79/month
Shared By: Danny Inman on Apr 1, 2007
Admins: MAKB, Nate Ball, Ricardo Orozco, Rudy Peckham

You & This Route


164 Opinions

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Description

Awesome bolted crack climbing.

P1 - 10c head up and left of a large block, pull a small bulge and continue up and into a finger crack. (30m)

P2 - 10b follow cracks up to a big flake, step left into a hand crack (30m)

P3 - 10c Traverse out right a ways and then up, pull an exciting bulge (30m)

P4 - 5.9 Chimney up to gain cracks that lead up and right. Belay up and right (around the corner) from the obvious rap anchor.

P5 - 10a Broken terrain up the top.

Descend via rappelling from the top. Note: when rapping you will end up using anchors on Uncle Crusy's, putting you uphill from the start of the climb. Basically don't leave your pack, shoes, etc at the first belay, as I did, b/c it is a huge pain in the ass to get back over to the first belay.

Location

This climb is located on the lower end of Motta Wall, a couple routes to the right (up hill) from Snot Girlz.

Protection

Standard Potrero rack, book recommends 14 draws.
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10-
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.10-
A 70m rope on this route and most other newer routes at the Potrero, such as Treasure of the Sierra Madre, is highly recommended, if not required, for safe rappelling. We climbed this route on double 60s and had to rap on them because rapping a single 60m rope came up short on a couple pitches. Thankfully, you one can always clip into a protection bolt and rap off a leaver-biner if the rope comes up short but it's scary getting that close to the end of the rope and is somewhat disappointing to leave a biner. Rapping on double ropes works but there so much vegetation next to the routes that having tons of rope to pull can be a pain. Dec 31, 2007
The fifth pitch has two options: the right one as described above and the left one, which we thought it was about 11b. Both are long but have intermediate anchors to rappel with a single rope. Jun 5, 2008
Misha Tselman
New York, NY
 
Misha Tselman   New York, NY
 
According to Magic Ed, the fifth pitch variation is an 5.11c (goes left, while the 5.10a goes right)
This last pitch is long and even with a 70 meter rope you either need to downclimb a bit after rappel or use intermediate anchors. Apr 25, 2010
Christine Page
San Francisco
Christine Page   San Francisco
The person who leads the odd numbered pitches gets the more comfortable belay stances. Nov 30, 2010
Tom Atkins
Carbondale, Illinois
Tom Atkins   Carbondale, Illinois
Has this route been led on gear? Aug 29, 2016
MAKB
Denver, CO
 
MAKB   Denver, CO  
 
The first pitch was originally led on gear. I doubt anyone's ever done the whole thing on gear. Aug 31, 2016
Zak Munro
VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
 
Zak Munro   VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
 
Excellent climb (last pitch was ok) with great variety. Rapped straight down from the chimney pitch, plenty of stations to choose from if parties are coming up the same route. Jan 19, 2017
Seth Hogan
Frisco, Co
  5.10c
Seth Hogan   Frisco, Co
  5.10c
Something P Chico routinely lacks is sustained climbing. Not this route. Very sustained, easily linkable and just all round great movement although the last pitch doesn't really look worth doing. We skipped the last pitch.
Felt like: P1-.10c P2-.10c P3-.10b P4-5.9 Jan 28, 2017
Valerio Paolucci
San Francisco
  5.10c
Valerio Paolucci   San Francisco
  5.10c
DO NOT CLIMB this route with a 60m rope as I did. Came short at the base of pitch 4 and had to lower-off of a single bolt to reach the anchor 10ft below me. Other than that the route was fun involving a mix of crack and face climbing and a few cool crux sections. Highly recommend the 11a finish (left variation of 5th pitch) to the top as you will be standing at the very top of Mota Wall and can peak behind at the back side and down at Edgardo's truck. Epic finish. 2 days ago