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Routes in Mota Wall

Abuelito Dime Tu S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Agujero del Espacio S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
All Fun and Games S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beaver Heaver S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bubble Boyz S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cactus Dancing S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cactus Pile S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Caguama Queen S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cloud Nine S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crescent Moon AKA: Death of a Tradman T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Diez Algo S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dope Ninja S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Double Cherry Pie S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Double Trouble S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Drillin' and Swillin' S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
El Grifo ('The Stoner') S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
El Viajero del Tiempo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Eldorado Chuy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Emilio's Posse S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fat Boy Slim S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fear of a Curved Planet S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fierce Invalids S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Flaming Bearded Lady , The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Frenesi S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
G├╝eros Rancheros S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hey Buddy, Nice Cock S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
I Believe I Can Fly S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Juggalo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kelso's Way S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
King Mota S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
La Facil Facil S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
La Foresta S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
La Vaca ('The Cow') S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Leap of Faith S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Monkey Boy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Motarola S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Motavation S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Motavision S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mystery Niner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Onward Through the Fog S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pancho Villa Rides Again S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Paz Para Viequez S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Petting Zoo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pins and Needles S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Prophetess, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Red Helmet S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rusty's Crack S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sleepwalkin' S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Snott Girlz S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Soul Slinger S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Spies, Lies, and Naked Thighs S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stone Groovin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Team Hilti S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
This Dog's Life S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Time Loves a Hero S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tlaloc S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Treasure of the Sierra Madre S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Two Pumped Chump S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ulf Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Uncle Crusty S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 500 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Ed Wright
Page Views: 9,547 total, 74/month
Shared By: Danny Inman on Apr 1, 2007
Admins: MAKB, Ricardo Orozco

You & This Route


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Description

Awesome bolted crack climbing.

P1 - 10c head up and left of a large block, pull a small bulge and continue up and into a finger crack. (30m)

P2 - 10b follow cracks up to a big flake, step left into a hand crack (30m)

P3 - 10c Traverse out right a ways and then up, pull an exciting bulge (30m)

P4 - 5.9 Chimney up to gain cracks that lead up and right. Belay up and right (around the corner) from the obvious rap anchor.

P5 - 10a Broken terrain up the top.

Descend via rappelling from the top. Note: when rapping you will end up using anchors on Uncle Crusy's, putting you uphill from the start of the climb. Basically don't leave your pack, shoes, etc at the first belay, as I did, b/c it is a huge pain in the ass to get back over to the first belay.

Location

This climb is located on the lower end of Motta Wall, a couple routes to the right (up hill) from Snot Girlz.

Protection

Standard Potrero rack, book recommends 14 draws.
Seth Hogan
Frisco, Co
  5.10c
Seth Hogan   Frisco, Co
  5.10c
Something P Chico routinely lacks is sustained climbing. Not this route. Very sustained, easily linkable and just all round great movement although the last pitch doesn't really look worth doing. We skipped the last pitch.
Felt like: P1-.10c P2-.10c P3-.10b P4-5.9 Jan 28, 2017
Zak Munro
VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
 
Zak Munro   VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
 
Excellent climb (last pitch was ok) with great variety. Rapped straight down from the chimney pitch, plenty of stations to choose from if parties are coming up the same route. Jan 19, 2017
MAKB
Potrero Chico, MEX
 
MAKB   Potrero Chico, MEX  
 
The first pitch was originally led on gear. I doubt anyone's ever done the whole thing on gear. Aug 31, 2016
Tom Atkins
Carbondale, Illinois
Tom Atkins   Carbondale, Illinois
Has this route been led on gear? Aug 29, 2016
Christine Page
San Francisco
Christine Page   San Francisco
The person who leads the odd numbered pitches gets the more comfortable belay stances. Nov 30, 2010
Misha Tselman
New York, NY
 
Misha Tselman   New York, NY
 
According to Magic Ed, the fifth pitch variation is an 5.11c (goes left, while the 5.10a goes right)
This last pitch is long and even with a 70 meter rope you either need to downclimb a bit after rappel or use intermediate anchors. Apr 25, 2010
The fifth pitch has two options: the right one as described above and the left one, which we thought it was about 11b. Both are long but have intermediate anchors to rappel with a single rope. Jun 5, 2008
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10-
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.10-
A 70m rope on this route and most other newer routes at the Potrero, such as Treasure of the Sierra Madre, is highly recommended, if not required, for safe rappelling. We climbed this route on double 60s and had to rap on them because rapping a single 60m rope came up short on a couple pitches. Thankfully, you one can always clip into a protection bolt and rap off a leaver-biner if the rope comes up short but it's scary getting that close to the end of the rope and is somewhat disappointing to leave a biner. Rapping on double ropes works but there so much vegetation next to the routes that having tons of rope to pull can be a pain. Dec 31, 2007