Type: Sport, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches
FA: Ed Wright
Page Views: 14,162 total · 86/month
Shared By: Danny Inman on Apr 1, 2007
Admins: Hank Caylor, MAKB, Ricardo Orozco, Rudy Peckham

You & This Route


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Description

Awesome bolted crack climbing.

P1 - 10c head up and left of a large block, pull a small bulge and continue up and into a finger crack. (30m)

P2 - 10b follow cracks up to a big flake, step left into a hand crack (30m)

P3 - 10c Traverse out right a ways and then up, pull an exciting bulge (30m)

P4 - 5.9 Chimney up to gain cracks that lead up and right. Belay up and right (around the corner) from the obvious rap anchor.

P5 - 10a Broken terrain up the top.

Descend via rappelling from the top. Note: when rapping you will end up using anchors on Uncle Crusy's, putting you uphill from the start of the climb. Basically don't leave your pack, shoes, etc at the first belay, as I did, b/c it is a huge pain in the ass to get back over to the first belay.

Location

This climb is located on the lower end of Motta Wall, a couple routes to the right (up hill) from Snot Girlz.

Protection

Standard Potrero rack, book recommends 14 draws.

Photos