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Routes in Mota Wall

Abuelito Dime Tu S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Agujero del Espacio S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
All Fun and Games S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beaver Heaver S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bubble Boyz S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cactus Dancing S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cactus Pile S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Caguama Queen S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cloud Nine S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crescent Moon AKA: Death of a Tradman T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Diez Algo S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dope Ninja S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Double Cherry Pie S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Double Trouble S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Drillin' and Swillin' S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
El Grifo ('The Stoner') S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
El Viajero del Tiempo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Eldorado Chuy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Emilio's Posse S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fat Boy Slim S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fear of a Curved Planet S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fierce Invalids S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Flaming Bearded Lady , The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Frenesi S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
G├╝eros Rancheros S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hey Buddy, Nice Cock S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
I Believe I Can Fly S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Juggalo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kelso's Way S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
King Mota S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
La Facil Facil S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
La Foresta S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
La Vaca ('The Cow') S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Leap of Faith S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Monkey Boy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Motarola S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Motavation S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Motavision S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mystery Niner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Onward Through the Fog S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pancho Villa Rides Again S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Paz Para Viequez S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Petting Zoo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pins and Needles S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Prophetess, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Red Helmet S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rusty's Crack S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sleepwalkin' S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Snott Girlz S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Soul Slinger S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Spies, Lies, and Naked Thighs S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stone Groovin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Team Hilti S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
This Dog's Life S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Time Loves a Hero S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tlaloc S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Treasure of the Sierra Madre S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Two Pumped Chump S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ulf Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Uncle Crusty S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Karl Guthrie, Terrance Smith, Joseph Shwartz, 2004
Page Views: 2,570 total, 20/month
Shared By: Nick Wilder on Feb 15, 2007
Admins: MAKB, Ricardo Orozco

You & This Route


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Description

Three pitches of great climbing and scenery. One of the finest in the Potrero.

P1: 5.8 Great jugs follow 11 bolts to a good ledge. Crux near top with thin moves. 100 feet.

P2: 5.10b Balancy moves past 7 bolts to a hanging belay after 80 feet. About two-thirds of the way, you move right about 8 feet.

P3: 5.9 Nice moves to a beautiful ledge. Bring lunch. 9 bolts over 100 feet.

Rap with on 60M rope.

Location

This is the leftmost route once inside the gate. Follow the red rock path to the base and move a little left. Dope Ninja is also on Mota Wall, but is much farther to the left and is accessed from OUTSIDE the gate.

Protection

bolts as listed above
Ryan Loiselle
Pepperell, MA
 
Ryan Loiselle   Pepperell, MA
 
Stefano - You can start further left (and down a few feet) of "I Believe I Can Fly", which would leave that climb open for others Apr 3, 2017
The route starts exactly where the tag for "I Believe I Can Fly" is, it just goes left instead of going straight up. Mar 24, 2017
Ryan Loiselle
Pepperell, MA
 
Ryan Loiselle   Pepperell, MA
 
Second pitch zig-zags a little bit...bring two alpine draws to help reduce rope-drag. Also, 10b pitch only has a single 10b move - the rest felt a lot easier. Mar 16, 2017
Patrick O  
 
Each pitch varied. The second pitch is money, super thin. Jan 16, 2017
A. Bandos
Broomfield
A. Bandos   Broomfield
Third pitch is super fun up the short arete. A very unique and memorable pitch from my time in El Potrero. Nov 26, 2015
Rob D.
Brooklyn, NY
 
Rob D.   Brooklyn, NY
 
Really wonderful short multipitch. Good belay stations and three distinctly different pitches. Mar 29, 2014
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
 
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
 
Nice Starter multi pitch on the lower MOta. Mellow and smooth climbing with lots of sunshine!! Watch out for dropping stuff on people bellow because there will be lots of them! Jan 10, 2012
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
 
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
 
I think this is a great climb. Stay off of P4 and you have an EPC classic. The 10b pitch is a one move wonder, harder if you are short. Jan 20, 2009
Rob P.
Twin Cities
Rob P.   Twin Cities
I really enjoyed this route. In Dane Bass's book, it has no stars, but much prefered it to other climbs around it at the Mota Wall. The 3rd pitch of 5.9 is excellent. Jan 12, 2009