Type: Sport, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Karl Guthrie, Terrance Smith, Joseph Shwartz, 2004
Page Views: 3,061 total · 21/month
Shared By: Nick Wilder on Feb 15, 2007
Admins: MAKB, Nate Ball, Ricardo Orozco, Rudy Peckham

You & This Route


116 Opinions

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Description

Three pitches of great climbing and scenery. One of the finest in the Potrero.

P1: 5.8 Great jugs follow 11 bolts to a good ledge. Crux near top with thin moves. 100 feet.

P2: 5.10b Balancy moves past 7 bolts to a hanging belay after 80 feet. About two-thirds of the way, you move right about 8 feet.

P3: 5.9 Nice moves to a beautiful ledge. Bring lunch. 9 bolts over 100 feet.

Rap with on 60M rope.

Location

This is the leftmost route once inside the gate. Follow the red rock path to the base and move a little left. Dope Ninja is also on Mota Wall, but is much farther to the left and is accessed from OUTSIDE the gate.

Protection

bolts as listed above

Photos

Rob P.
Twin Cities
Rob P.   Twin Cities
I really enjoyed this route. In Dane Bass's book, it has no stars, but much prefered it to other climbs around it at the Mota Wall. The 3rd pitch of 5.9 is excellent. Jan 12, 2009
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
 
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
 
I think this is a great climb. Stay off of P4 and you have an EPC classic. The 10b pitch is a one move wonder, harder if you are short. Jan 20, 2009
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
 
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
 
Nice Starter multi pitch on the lower MOta. Mellow and smooth climbing with lots of sunshine!! Watch out for dropping stuff on people bellow because there will be lots of them! Jan 10, 2012
Rob D.
Brooklyn, NY
 
Rob D.   Brooklyn, NY
 
Really wonderful short multipitch. Good belay stations and three distinctly different pitches. Mar 29, 2014
A. Bandos
Broomfield, CO
A. Bandos   Broomfield, CO
Third pitch is super fun up the short arete. A very unique and memorable pitch from my time in El Potrero. Nov 26, 2015
Patrick O
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Patrick O   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Each pitch varied. The second pitch is money, super thin. Jan 16, 2017
Ryan Loiselle
Pepperell, MA
  5.10a
Ryan Loiselle   Pepperell, MA
  5.10a
Second pitch zig-zags a little bit...bring two alpine draws to help reduce rope-drag. Also, 10b pitch only has a single 10b move - the rest felt a lot easier. Mar 16, 2017
The route starts exactly where the tag for "I Believe I Can Fly" is, it just goes left instead of going straight up. Mar 24, 2017
Ryan Loiselle
Pepperell, MA
  5.10a
Ryan Loiselle   Pepperell, MA
  5.10a
Stefano - You can start further left (and down a few feet) of "I Believe I Can Fly", which would leave that climb open for others Apr 3, 2017
The first pitch is not so great; linking pitches 1 and 2 is recommended. Pitches 2 and 3 are excellent, an EPC classic! Dec 24, 2017