Adventure Projects is hiring a web engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Mota Wall

Abuelito Dime Tu S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Agujero del Espacio S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
All Fun and Games S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beaver Heaver S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bubble Boyz S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cactus Dancing S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cactus Pile S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Caguama Queen S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cloud Nine S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crescent Moon AKA: Death of a Tradman T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Diez Algo S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dope Ninja S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Double Cherry Pie S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Double Trouble S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Drillin' and Swillin' S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
El Grifo ('The Stoner') S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
El Viajero del Tiempo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Eldorado Chuy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Emilio's Posse S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fat Boy Slim S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fear of a Curved Planet S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fierce Invalids S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Flaming Bearded Lady, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Frenesi S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
G├╝eros Rancheros S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hey Buddy, Nice Cock S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
I Believe I Can Fly S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Juggalo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kelso's Way S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
King Mota S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
La Facil Facil S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
La Foresta S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
La Vaca ('The Cow') S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Leap of Faith S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lisa's Pizzas S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Monkey Boy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Motarola S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Motavation S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Motavision S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mystery Niner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Wine T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Onward Through the Fog S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pancho Villa Rides Again S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Paz Para Viequez S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Petting Zoo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pins and Needles S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Prophetess, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Red Helmet S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rusty's Crack S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sleepwalkin' S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Snott Girlz S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Soul Slinger S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Spies, Lies, and Naked Thighs S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stone Groovin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Team Hilti S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
This Dog's Life S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Time Loves a Hero S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tlaloc S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Toil for the Wind S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Treasure of the Sierra Madre S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Two Pumped Chump S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ulf Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Uncle Crusty S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 700 ft, 7 pitches, Grade II
FA: Paul Irby, Ramon Huerga, Ismael Garza, Ed & Tami Wright, 2002
Page Views: 13,390 total · 96/month
Shared By: Matt Richardson on Apr 21, 2007
Admins: MAKB, Nate Ball, Ricardo Orozco, Rudy Peckham

You & This Route


162 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This route is consistent for the grade in Mexico The first two pitches go at 10a with the first pitch ending at the top of a distinct pillar. The third pitch goes at 10c with thin face moves to easier crack. If you jam, expect blood since this is sharp limestone!

The fourth pitch eases up at 9 and the final hard pitch follows at 10c. This fifth pitch is definitely the crux as there is a major pump factor from the previous four pitches. The business starts off the belay with thin face moves to a roof. The route eases up after surmounting the roof.

The sixth pitch goes at easy 9 and the 7th is a total choss pile with a grade of 5.7. Despite the lackluster climbing on the final pitch it is a must do - this long pitch ends at the top of the Sense of Religion wall straddling the fin. From here, you have a view of The Conundrums, La Ola and other walls to the north. Be careful not to pull off any of the large and unstable rocks on others below when finishing this pitch.

Most belays are hanging which makes for an uncomfortable day, but this route is well worth it. Due to the quality of the route, it sees a lot of ascents. I would recommend getting up early for this one to beat the crowds.

Location

The route is located uphill on the Lower Sense of Religion and is identifiable by a large pillar.

Protection

Being a newer Potrero route, this route is well bolted relative to others such as Jungle Mountaineering and Emilio's Posse. This route can be done easily with a 60 m rope; however, use the bolts located halfway down the last pitch if all you have is a 60 as you will have to do some down climbing if you try to go the full distance.
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.10
"and the 7th is a total choss pile with a grade of 5.7. Despite the lackluster climbing on the final pitch it is a must do - this long pitch ends at the top of the Sense of Religion wall straddling the fin."

Well said and I agree. The lower pitches on this route are fantastic with some wonderful movement on good rock. It would be a four-star classic if it weren't for the final 1.5 pitches. Still, a very nice route. A 70m rope makes getting down much easier and less scary. Jan 4, 2008
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
The first 5 pitches make for one of the best multipitch moderates at the Potrero. Jan 5, 2008
Matt Richardson
Longmont, CO
 
Matt Richardson   Longmont, CO  
 
A 70 m definitely takes the sting out of the rap on the last pitch - or maybe some foresight. I managed to miss the rap station half way down and had to down climb a bit to get to the rap station at the top of the sixth pitch. Apr 18, 2008
Blake Summers
Park City, Utah
  5.10c
Blake Summers   Park City, Utah
  5.10c
A must do for some great moderate climbing. Final pitches are choss but worth the top out! Dec 11, 2009
adam970  
the description says the that route is consistent with the grade in Mexico. Is the grading typically easier or harder? Aug 8, 2010
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
 
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
 
Totally Worth A go!! Every Pitch is stellar and sustained and very very fun!! If you are going to link pitches do so with a 70m. Some Thoughtful beta, Don't climb it with a party of three on a hot day, ekkk!! A Must do fun stuff!! Jan 10, 2012
Shire-mon
Moab, UT / Boone, NC
Shire-mon   Moab, UT / Boone, NC
Great fun. I agree with MIke though, dont get convinced into trudging up that thing with three people on a hot day! Still fun. May 31, 2012
Molly Zhu
New york
 
Molly Zhu   New york
 
We used a 60m rope and were a few ft short to reach one of the rappel anchors. We reached the two questionable bolts slightly above the anchor and left behind a carabiner to rappel. Nov 17, 2015
DrRockso
Red River Gorge, KY
 
DrRockso   Red River Gorge, KY
 
What a view from the top!! Jan 13, 2016
Izzy K.
Jackson, WY
 
Izzy K.   Jackson, WY
 
If 5.10 is the grade you're looking for, you must do this route!!! Very enjoyable climbing with not a single bad pitch. Even the run out to the top was fun -- blocky rock but pretty dang sturdy.

I don't agree with the previous comments about "choss" at the top...at least not the crumbly, low-quality stuff I think of as choss.

BEAUTIFUL SUMMIT.

It would not be enjoyable to have people rappelling off over you (or to rappel over another party on your way out). Just hit it in June like I did and you'll surely be the only climbers on it slash the whole park. ;)

The pitches are long and we did not link any. Jun 23, 2016
Got on this today- GREAT ROUTE!!!

I highly recommend linking pitches to save time.

Link 1+2, 3+4, 5+6

And then one final push to the summit, 150ft Pitch 7.

25 draws should be fine for this. Bring alpine draws- you will need them in places.

Epic summit too!!!! Dec 21, 2016
Sarah (sp?) and Olivia--I have photos of you in the mist on this route from Jan 3! PM me and I'll send along! Cheers, BC Jan 10, 2017
Seth Hogan
Frisco, Co
 
Seth Hogan   Frisco, Co
 
This climb has 2 or 3 .10c moves throughout the entire climb. It is basically a sustained 5.9 so don't let the grade scare you off. Easy to link pitches and the last pitch isn't worth doing. Pancho Villa is much better if you're looking for a more sustained 10. Jan 28, 2017
Shao Hao
  5.10c
Shao Hao  
  5.10c
Fantastic 5.10 climb. Started at 6.45am and finished in 3.5hrs. With a 70m we linked: P1+2 P3 P4+5 P6+7 Was supposed to link 3 and 4 but we got some confusion. Don't recommend 4+5 Cause that's where the roof crux is and it'll be nice if there was less rope drag, though still manageable. Recommend ~24 draws, of which maybe 6+ being alpine draws cause it'll help with drag. Super good climb for the 10 climber Jan 3, 2018
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
Fantastic line! Featured cracks with a great summit. If you don't consider yourself a crack climber don't let that dissuade you from getting on this route. Lots of features, hidden holds and overall coolness to use. With a 70...it easily links 1/2, 3/4, singled pitch 5 then linked 6/7. The stations were mostly small ledges and fairly comfortable, plenty of room for the easy raps on the way down. Starting pitch 6.. take a gander to your right to find several widow maker blocks balanced in a bush. #EEEK Mar 2, 2018

More About Treasure of the Sierra Madre

Printer-Friendly