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Routes in Mota Wall

Abuelito Dime Tu S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Agujero del Espacio S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
All Fun and Games S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beaver Heaver S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bubble Boyz S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cactus Dancing S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cactus Pile S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Caguama Queen S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cloud Nine S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crescent Moon AKA: Death of a Tradman T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Diez Algo S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dope Ninja S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Double Cherry Pie S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Double Trouble S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Drillin' and Swillin' S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
El Grifo ('The Stoner') S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
El Viajero del Tiempo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Eldorado Chuy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Emilio's Posse S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fat Boy Slim S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fear of a Curved Planet S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fierce Invalids S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Flaming Bearded Lady , The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Frenesi S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
G├╝eros Rancheros S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hey Buddy, Nice Cock S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
I Believe I Can Fly S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Juggalo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kelso's Way S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
King Mota S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
La Facil Facil S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
La Foresta S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
La Vaca ('The Cow') S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Leap of Faith S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Monkey Boy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Motarola S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Motavation S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Motavision S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mystery Niner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Onward Through the Fog S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pancho Villa Rides Again S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Paz Para Viequez S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Petting Zoo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pins and Needles S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Prophetess, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Red Helmet S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rusty's Crack S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sleepwalkin' S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Snott Girlz S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Soul Slinger S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Spies, Lies, and Naked Thighs S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stone Groovin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Team Hilti S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
This Dog's Life S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Time Loves a Hero S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tlaloc S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Treasure of the Sierra Madre S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Two Pumped Chump S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ulf Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Uncle Crusty S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 450 ft, 7 pitches
FA: Curtis Mai and Tod McCray, 1995
Page Views: 9,761 total, 82/month
Shared By: Dane Casterson on Mar 2, 2008
Admins: MAKB, Ricardo Orozco

You & This Route


135 Opinions

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Description

This is a great multi-pitch route that is very safe and very fun. The biggest dangers come from falling rocks from climbers above. The crux of the route is on the first pitch and seems more committing than that hard but definitely goes at pumpy 10+. The remaining 6 pitches are all just as much fun. The traverse pitch (four or five I think) is a blast and also well protected for both climbers. The final pitch should not be missed either.

Bring the helmet and be careful of the climbers below. While climbing on the Mota Wall I regularly saw fist size rocks coming down from several hundred feet up.

Pitches go at: 10+, 10+, 10, 9, 9, 9, 9

Location

Hike to the Mota and go up trail for a couple of minutes and is maybe 8 routes from where the routes start. Look for the large obvious crack with bolts and likely a line of people.

Protection

QD's. 12 should be plenty if you go pitch by pitch.
Julie Wang  
 
first pitch felt 10c/d, p2 10b, p3 10a/b.
The next four were the money pitches.
p4 filled with jugs, then some liebacking, p5 is a super exposed, jug-filled traverse. p6 and p7 juggy and great, with some liebacking on p7.
p1 10 bolts, p2 7 bolts, p3 9 bolts, p4 10 bolts, p5 7 bolts, p6 7 bolts 3 bolt anchor, p7 6 bolts Dec 20, 2016
Matt Richardson
Longmont, CO
Matt Richardson   Longmont, CO  
Given that you are traversing across the top of the Mota wall, be careful not to trundle rocks onto the crowds below (and there will be crowds). Apr 18, 2008
Monica Jones
Bishop, CA
 
Monica Jones   Bishop, CA
 
I didn't find this to be reachy at all, and I am 5'1", but that might be because I trad climb, and I did a lot of jamming and finger locking on this thing. Great route! Feb 9, 2017
Ken Chase
Toronto, ON
  5.10+
Ken Chase   Toronto, ON
  5.10+
Great route. On it 2 days ago - up 3 times now with new climbers each successive time to get them on the amazing exposed p5. p1 def 10d, but check outside the crack for additional holds. p2 much easier at 10b (cant remember specific height issues, but my 5'8" partner walked it, vs p1). p3 is quite slabby, delicate awesome technical movement (10b?). If the 4th pitch feels > 5.9 you're doing it wrong (find the lieback walkup!). p5 5.8 (even at the exposure point off the belay), p6 is delicate slab again over a sharp limestone and cactus slab gully (def. 5.9+). Top pitch to the gendarme again easy.

Linkable on 70: p1+2, 3+4, 5+6. 2 70's let you rap from top of p6/p7 belay to p4/p5 belay directly down, and 2 more to the ground. Don't miss the p5 station, wall's a bit overhanging, swing a bit - knot ends of rope please! Feb 5, 2016
Lance Ranzer
  5.11b/c
Lance Ranzer  
  5.11b/c
Did this route for Turkey Day 2015, an here's my thoughts:
10+ first pitch, the crack above was super slippery (probably over climbed) and really reachy small holds(short people will have issues) i'm 5"9' and had issues. I think this part for me pushed the grade around 11b/c. Also the second pitch has another 10+ area, that i'd have to say its' 11a/b move as well.. 3rd pitch says 10, had couple areas where it was 10b/c. As for the remaining 5.9 pitches left above.. Some of them had 10a/b moves. Of course the final pitch rated a 5.9 at the top was very weird and tricky, 10a/b for sure.

I'm a 12 climber and just wanted to note these rating --- if your not a solid 10+ climber, be aware its a tough lead with 8-10ft bolt seperations in crux areas. So if your max is a 5.9 for leading or a 10a be careful on the 5.9 pitches above on lead.

Overall - fun climb and the view is amazing of course. Dec 3, 2015
Phill T
 
Phill T  
 
first pitch felt like 10c/d, second pitch more 10a/b. Dec 17, 2008