Type: Sport, 800 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: Magic Ed
Page Views: 383 total · 9/month
Shared By: Morgan F. Smith on Sep 4, 2015
Admins: MAKB, Nate Ball, Ricardo Orozco, Rudy Peckham

You & This Route


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Description

Crux is at the 5th pitch, in a section with a minor bulge that requires faith in 3 pads, a high foot, and some grit. Overall nice rock, still sharp with lots of friction.
Pitch 1: 5.7 Very easy going. Ends at fixe sport anchors about 75 feet up or can be continued and linked with pitch 2 with 17 draws.

Pitch 2: 5.9+ Fun pitch with solid holds intermixed with sections a bit more difficult. 10 bolts.

Pitch 3: 5.11b (10a variation to the right) Follows dihedral like feature up 90 feet to a crux at the top. Traverse left to anchors.

Pitch 4: 5.10b Good mix of holds about 80 feet up to anchors. 11 bolts.

Pitch 5: 5.11c (10c variation to the left in the middle of the pitch which leads away from the 11c crux, with broken hold that could make it more difficult) ascend small dihedral to small face climb area. Hit the crux in a dihedral and continue on to an amazing slightly overhanging finger crack.

Pitch 6: 5.10b Follow a solid line of holds up to the left, a good section but nothing spectacular. 12 bolts.

Pitch 7: 5.10b A scrambly section lead to a traverse right, into a dihedral. Watch for loose blocks.

Pitch 8: 5.9 Follow another meandering series of bulges up to the left through easy terrain to a nice finish.

This wall is in direct sun after about noon. Unless you get an early start, climbing this route is not recommended until fall or winter. If you do choose to climb it in the summer or spring sun, bring lots of water (at least two liters per person) and electrolytes in your desired form.

Location

Find this route about 100 feet to the right of Cloud Nine. The route has a tag at the bottom marking the name and is to the left of a slabby section. Don't be confused by close bolt lines of other routes, just find the tag.

Protection

Bolts bolts bolts! The protection is excellent overall. The first 11 is zippered the whole way up. All the cruxes are very well protected. A small chain, rings or fixes can be expected at the anchors. Bring 18 draws. If all bolts on the first 11 are clipped, the number is about 16. Linking pitches is recommended for the first two pitches. Some bolts can be skipped at the climbers discretion.

Photos

Simeon  
Morgan, Can you please give a an accurate grade for/to all the pitches? There was no FFA on the route. The names provided pulled on every draw, and rode the fixed lines to the top. Maybe the first pitch was climbed without hanging... Can you add for the community what to expect?
Thanks. May 12, 2016
Morgan F. Smith
Texas
  5.11c
Morgan F. Smith   Texas
  5.11c
Hey Simeon,
That's interesting, where did you hear that from? As far as I remember, the grades provided are fairly accurate. It was a really nice climb! May 16, 2016
MAKB
Denver, CO
 
MAKB   Denver, CO  
 
Watch out for loose blocks on the upper half and the alternate bolts to nowhere on p7. Mar 11, 2017