Type: Sport, 800 ft (242 m), 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: Magic Ed
Page Views: 1,402 total · 12/month
Shared By: Morgan Smith on Sep 4, 2015
Admins: Rudy Peckham, MAKB, Greg Hughes, Ricardo Orozco, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

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Description Suggest change

Crux is at the 5th pitch, in a section with a minor bulge that requires faith in 3 pads, a high foot, and some grit. Overall nice rock, still sharp with lots of friction.
Pitch 1: 5.7 Very easy going. Ends at fixe sport anchors about 75 feet up or can be continued and linked with pitch 2 with 17 draws.

Pitch 2: 5.9+ Fun pitch with solid holds intermixed with sections a bit more difficult. 10 bolts.

Pitch 3: 5.11b (10a variation to the right) Follows dihedral like feature up 90 feet to a crux at the top. Traverse left to anchors.

Pitch 4: 5.10b Good mix of holds about 80 feet up to anchors. 11 bolts.

Pitch 5: 5.11c (10c variation to the left in the middle of the pitch which leads away from the 11c crux, with broken hold that could make it more difficult) ascend small dihedral to small face climb area. Hit the crux in a dihedral and continue on to an amazing slightly overhanging finger crack.

Pitch 6: 5.10b Follow a solid line of holds up to the left, a good section but nothing spectacular. 12 bolts.

Pitch 7: 5.10b A scrambly section lead to a traverse right, into a dihedral. Watch for loose blocks.

Pitch 8: 5.9 Follow another meandering series of bulges up to the left through easy terrain to a nice finish.

This wall is in direct sun after about noon. Unless you get an early start, climbing this route is not recommended until fall or winter. If you do choose to climb it in the summer or spring sun, bring lots of water (at least two liters per person) and electrolytes in your desired form.

Location Suggest change

Find this route about 100 feet to the right of Cloud Nine. The route has a tag at the bottom marking the name and is to the left of a slabby section. Don't be confused by close bolt lines of other routes, just find the tag.

Protection Suggest change

Bolts bolts bolts! The protection is excellent overall. The first 11 is zippered the whole way up. All the cruxes are very well protected. A small chain, rings or fixes can be expected at the anchors. Bring 18 draws. If all bolts on the first 11 are clipped, the number is about 16. Linking pitches is recommended for the first two pitches. Some bolts can be skipped at the climbers discretion.

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