All Locations > International > North America > Mexico > Northern Mexico > Nuevo Leon > El Potrero Chico > Mota Wall
Time Loves a Hero
Avg: 2 from 4 votes
|Type:||Sport, 800 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III|
|Page Views:||279 total · 9/month|
|Shared By:||Morgan F. Smith on Sep 4, 2015|
|Admins:||Ricardo Orozco, MAKB, Nate Ball|
DescriptionCrux is at the 5th pitch, in a section with a minor bulge that requires faith in 3 pads, a high foot, and some grit. Overall nice rock, still sharp with lots of friction.
Pitch 1: 5.7 Very easy going. Ends at fixe sport anchors about 75 feet up or can be continued and linked with pitch 2 with 17 draws.
Pitch 2: 5.9+ Fun pitch with solid holds intermixed with sections a bit more difficult. 10 bolts.
Pitch 3: 5.11b (10a variation to the right) Follows dihedral like feature up 90 feet to a crux at the top. Traverse left to anchors.
Pitch 4: 5.10b Good mix of holds about 80 feet up to anchors. 11 bolts.
Pitch 5: 5.11c (10c variation to the left in the middle of the pitch which leads away from the 11c crux, with broken hold that could make it more difficult) ascend small dihedral to small face climb area. Hit the crux in a dihedral and continue on to an amazing slightly overhanging finger crack.
Pitch 6: 5.10b Follow a solid line of holds up to the left, a good section but nothing spectacular. 12 bolts.
Pitch 7: 5.10b A scrambly section lead to a traverse right, into a dihedral. Watch for loose blocks.
Pitch 8: 5.9 Follow another meandering series of bulges up to the left through easy terrain to a nice finish.
This wall is in direct sun after about noon. Unless you get an early start, climbing this route is not recommended until fall or winter. If you do choose to climb it in the summer or spring sun, bring lots of water (at least two liters per person) and electrolytes in your desired form.