All Locations > International > North America > Mexico > Northern Mexico > Nuevo Leon > El Potrero Chico > Mota Wall
Avg: 2.5 from 91 votes
|Type:||Sport, 600 ft, 6 pitches|
|FA:||Dane Bass & Matt Greco & Ralph Vega 2004|
|Page Views:||6,367 total · 51/month|
|Shared By:||Charles Konopa on Dec 18, 2007|
|Admins:||MAKB, Ricardo Orozco, Nate Ball|
DescriptionP1: Climb ramp up to first bolt and pull roof. Some more climbing takes you to a 3 bolt anchor. 80 feet 5.7
P2: Follow closely spaced bolts up more difficult terrain. (Notice additional rap anchors off to right as an option to get down.) You will reach a stance below an intimidating roof. The anchors are at the top. 140 feet. 18 bolts plus anchor (though we skipped one of the bolts shortly before the roof). 5.10b
P3: The crux comes quick off the belay. Slab and/or arete climb up thru reachy crux and work your way to the right and then up following the bolts. 12 bolts plus anchors, 90 feet 5.10b.
P4: Start by going up over small roof. At the sixth bolt, start traversing left. You will feel more like a mountaineer on this part, but keep following the bolts as they will lead you to a nice belay. 14 bolts plus anchors, 110 feet 5.6. The belay here has two anchors, take your pick, but the one on the left is meant for the rappel into the meadow for you to scramble over back to the anchors of the pitch below.
P5: Pull big moves off big holds to start the pitch at 5.8, then continue to step your way up the arete, finding tougher sections along the way. Yes, the anchors are obvious when you get there. 90 feet 5.9.
P6: From the belay at the top of pitch 5, move belay about 30 feet across ledge to another set of anchors. Climb up steep rock to the top out. Two slinged draws are useful on this pitch: one for the first bolt, and another higher up (obvious). 90 feet 5.7 but I had some trouble with it because my hands were raw from the sharp rock.
Descent: One option is to rap the route you just climbed...yah, seems difficult after all that traversing. Or do what we did and rap Snott Girlz. At the summit, you will find the anchors to Snott Girlz about 6 feet around the corner. The raps go down and to the left (as looking at the wall). Some of the raps have more of a pendulum than others. The last rap down a 60 meter rope won't make it, so use an anchor about 30 feet lower and a little to your left.