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Routes in Black Orpheus Amphitheater

Black Baby T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Black Ops T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Orpheus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Black Widow, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Eurydice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Howl's Moving Castle T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Marijuana T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Offset Corners T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Plate of Fate T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Secret World of Arrietty, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
There and Back Again T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tuscarora T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 260 ft, 2 pitches
FA: FA: Unknown.
FFA: Joshua Janes w/ K. McCullough, C. Galitsky (w/ special thanks to M. Ward & D. Sorric) - Winter, 2012
Page Views: 695 total, 11/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Dec 22, 2012
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

About 100 yards left of Plate of Fate is a long, shallow, white, right-facing corner. Another 20' further left is a low roof. Begin below an oven-sized inset in this roof.

P1: A great warmup. Climb easy rock up to the inset in the roof, arranging overhead pro and pulling the roof on a solid hand jam. From here, continue up the varnished face following a seam that affords spaced but excellent pro, eventually reaching a stance on a small ledge. Arrange more pro here and move off to the right to easy climbing on softer rock. Continue up for another 75' to a belay under the arch being careful of hollow holds on the last stretch. The white corner to the right of this pitch has also been climbed and leads to the same spot. 5.10a, 180'.

P2: A wild pitch. Climb up and right off the belay and pinch and sidepull a unique tufa-like flake up the 45 degree headwall. At an incut (crucial Yellow, Green, and/or Blue Aliens in a horizontal) fingertip traverse right to a few powerful moves up to huge incut jugs and more pro. Indulge the temptation to cut the feet free and campus - a hand jam "rest" may or may not prevent total forearm annihilation. Eventually pull onto the low angle face above and work easily up this finding a spot to belay just before gaining the Painted Bowl. 5.12a, 80'.

Three raps down Plate of Fate with a single 70 or a stretchy 60.

Protection

Single set from small to #2 Camalot with doubles from small to 1". Wires. Aliens or other small, flexible cams are key to protect the crux.

Photos

Shawn Cook
  5.12a
Shawn Cook  
  5.12a
Short bouldery crux. Not a classic, but if you like steep bouldery trad climbing this ones for you. Gear and Grade is right on. Dec 18, 2013