Avg: 2.8 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, 450 ft, 4 pitches|
|FA:||Tom Cecil, John Barnes, John Rosholt 1995.|
|Page Views:||1,252 total · 17/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Janes on Feb 10, 2012|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionTuscarora is a brilliant route that climbs the left side of the huge brown buttress separating the Black Arch Wall from the walls containing Black Orpheus. The route takes a system of corners through a large roof and then tackles a very difficult finger crack. It is south facing and offers nice, sunny climbing perfect for a clear winter day. Approach as for Black Orpheus, but head left across the slabs (may require some exposed easy 5th class) and away from Black Orpheus to reach an indistinct weakness below the left side of the towering buttress above. You may arrive at a small, body-sized cave that is just left of the line and just to the right of a narrow ridge of rock that separates the Black Orpheus side of the amphitheater from the There and Back Again side. About 20' below this cave is a nice ledge and a single bolt which is a good place to begin.
P1: Depending on where you start, begin climbing up a corner and onto broken rock, working out left then back right underneath a steep wall, then continue just right of a vegetated right-facing corner to a nice ledge with a bolted anchor. 5.5-5.8.
P2: Climb up interesting features passing two bolts to a bolted anchor on a sloping ledge directly below the large roof. 5.10b, 100.
P3: Pass the roof via jamming, stems, and underclings good pro and bolts protect. Belay at a bolted anchor. A wild, awesome, and exposed pitch. 5.11, 100.
P4: Step right from the belay and climb friable rock before moving back left and continuing up interesting face features, ultimately arriving at a stance at the base of a very thin crack. This crack, which is slightly overhanging and tips-sized, is the crux. Difficult for the grade, (smaller fingers will have an easier go of it, but be prepared for pain) this aint no Rainbow Wall 5.12. Some hollow rock but great movement and position. Small cams and a few bolts protect as the difficulty eases slightly on the way to a bolted anchor in the middle of outer space. Yowsers! 5.12c, 100.
Rap the route with a single 70m cord.