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Eurydice

Name: Eurydice
Rating: 3.1

5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13

Routes in Black Orpheus Amphitheater

L › R R › L A › Z

	Administrative Overreach T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
	Black Baby T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Black Ops T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Black Orpheus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Black Widow, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Eurydice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Fortress of Xanadu, The T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
	Howl's Moving Castle T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Marijuana T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Offset Corners T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Plate of Fate T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Secret World of Arrietty, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	There and Back Again T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Tuscarora T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

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Type:	Trad, 240 ft (73 m), 2 pitches
FA:	Josh Janes - Winter 2017
Page Views:	3,657 total · 41/month
Shared By:	Josh Janes on Dec 10, 2017
Admins:	Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).

Description

Eurydice is a direct finish to Black Orpheus that replaces the chossy exit slab with two new pitches of spectacular climbing: a wild traverse into outer space and a 5.5 romp with 1000 feet of exposure nipping at your heels - separated by one of the more outrageous belay ledges in all of Red Rocks! If you're climbing Black Orpheus and are up for one more small section of 5.10 at the end of the day, this is unquestionably the way to finish.

P1-9 (5.9+ or 5.10a, 1100'): Begin by climbing through the crux of Black Orpheus (P1-9 in the Handren guide), belaying on the higher of two large ledges in the massive upper corner.

P10 (5.10b, 120'): Climb up the corner as per the original line, but instead of "traversing out right on sloping ledges to the anchor", continue up the corner another body length or two (good medium wires in poor rock) to a jug. This jug is the start of a ledge/catwalk that breaches the overhanging left wall of the corner. From the jug, hand traverse wildly until it is possible to swing up onto the ledge (crux). Follow this sickeningly exposed ledge all the way out the corner to an incredible crow's nest belay platform and build an anchor in varnished rock using small/medium wires and a small cam (0.3 Camalot or the like).

P11 (5.5, 120'): Climb straight up the slab, hugging the arete (exposed!) until the angle eases very close to the start of the Painted Bowl descent route.