Type: Trad, 240 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Josh Janes - Winter 2017
Page Views: 1,081 total · 74/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Dec 10, 2017
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Eurydice is a direct finish to Black Orpheus that replaces the chossy exit slab with two new pitches of spectacular climbing: a wild traverse into outer space and a 5.5 romp with 1000 feet of exposure nipping at your heels - separated by one of the more outrageous belay ledges in all of Red Rocks! If you're climbing Black Orpheus and are up for one more small section of 5.10 at the end of the day, this is unquestionably the way to finish!

P1-9 (5.9+ or 5.10a, 1100'): Begin by climbing through the crux of Black Orpheus (P1-9 in the Handren guide), belaying on the higher of two large ledges in the massive upper corner.

P10 (5.10b, 120'): Climb up the corner as per the original line, but instead of "traversing out right on sloping ledges to the anchor", continue up the corner another body length or two (good medium wires) to a jug. This jug is the start of a ledge/catwalk that breaches the overhanging left wall of the corner. From the jug, hand traverse wildly until it is possible to swing up onto the ledge (crux). Follow this sickeningly exposed ledge all the way out the corner to an incredible crow's nest belay platform and build an anchor in varnished rock using small/medium wires and a small cam (0.3 Camalot or the like).

P11 (5.5, 120'): Climb straight up the slab, hugging the arete (exposed!) until the angle eases very close to the start of the Painted Bowl descent route.

Protection

1-2x cams from small to #1 Camalot and a set of wires... Whatever you brought for Black Orpheus should be fine.

Photos

Peter Lewis
Bridgton, ME
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, ME
This looks great! Dec 17, 2017
Chad Elliott
Las Vegas
  5.10b
Chad Elliott   Las Vegas
  5.10b
One of the craziest pitches I have ever done. Don't be surprised if you end up crawling for a few feet. Monster death block towards end of traverse. Be careful, It has X's now. Mar 14, 2018