Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches
FA: FA: Unknown.FFA: Joshua Janes, Josh Thompson, Kathrine McCullough - April, 2012
Page Views: 2,837 total · 19/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Apr 16, 2012
Admins: Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen, Aaron Mc

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Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Howl's Moving Castle tackles the obvious weakness in the massive roof on the right side of the main Black Arch Wall in four short, interesting pitches. This is a good route except for a little loose rock here and there and a brief dirty section. All of this might clean up with traffic, but even in its current state the route offers diverse climbing and fantastic exposure on the last two pitches in particular.

Having spent way too much time up there this season, my eye was inevitably drawn towards this line. When we finally made time to check it out, we discovered a bolted anchor halfway up the lower corner, however, there was no evidence of progress beyond the first two pitches - it appeared that whoever had been up there previously stopped beneath the crux roof pitch (I'd love more information if anyone out there knows anything) - so we kept going! What resulted was essentially a ground-up FA of a sweet new line. I led pitches one, two, and four onsight and followed Josh Thompson cleanly on the crux third pitch, returning a few days later to lead every pitch.

Begin directly below the left-arching, left-facing corners that form the right side of the main Black Arch Wall. Scrambling up some 4th class to a bushy ledge to begin the first pitch is recommended, but it is possible to begin below this on the more spacious slabs.

P1 (5.10b, 75-150', depending on where you start): Climb straight up from the bushy ledge towards the left end of another bushy ledge that is directly below an obvious chimney at the base of the corner. Chimney up this (unprotected) and then work out left from the top of the chimney (good gear) to a roof at the base of the corner. Arrange gear here and pull awkwardly up over the roof, stepping easily left to a bolted belay atop a large flake. It is possible for the second to avoid the chimney by climbing up a large slabby flake, but this is not recommended for the leader as the flake is crumbling and there is no worthwhile gear until the top of the chimney.

P2 (5.10b with 5.9 R or 5.11a, 80'): Step right and up off the belay, and then continue up the slick, leaning corner. Liebacks and ultimately fist jams lead up this to a good stem rest. Here the corner pinches down to tips: Continue up with liebacks (crux) until the corner thankfully, and abruptly, widens. Here, gain a large flake and clip a bolt before performing a thin mantle followed by easier climbing up and left to a bolted anchor at a comfortable stance. It is also possible to traverse left at the stem rest and climb the unprotected face before stepping back right after the thin liebacks, thus changing the grade of this pitch to 5.10b (with 5.9 R). Otherwise, the pitch is 5.11a.

P3 (5.11c, 90'): From the ground this roof appears to be a 30' monster, but you'll see it isn't so bad. Climb up via steep, positive, but very powerful liebacks to a few handjams and a final burly move turning the lip. Stopping to place gear on this bit is difficult, but overall the holds are really good. Once around the corner, there's about 10' of dirty rock that can mostly be avoided, but the exposure is spectacular as the climbing eases to a vertical, 5.9 romp up the crack system to a good belay ledge out right.

P4 (5.10d, 75'): Continue up the crack system through soft white rock. This bit of climbing is way steeper than it looks, but is well-protected and actually quite good. Belay just above the top of the wall at a comfortable stance.

Walk off via the Painted Bowl descent or rap Plate of Fate with a single 70m rope.

Protection Suggest change

4-5x Blue Aliens/00 TCU's
2x 0.3 - 0.5 Camalots
1x 0.75 - #4 Camalots
A few draws/slings
No wires necessary