Black Orpheus Amphitheater Rock Climbing
|GPS:||36.103, -115.49 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Larry DeAngelo on Oct 12, 2007|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
DescriptionImmediately upstream from the Solar Slab is the Black Orpheus Amphitheater. This huge bowl faces generally south and is separated from the main part of the Solar Slab Buttress by the lengthy Sunspot Ridge. The amphitheater itself can be divided into three sub-areas. The tall central section is the site of the Black Orpheus route. This reaches the very top of the Solar Slab Buttress and follows the descent routes described in that section.
The left side of the amphitheater is the Black Arch Wall. The routes here are shorter and end in the Painted Bowl. Most of these routes are best approached from near the upstream end of the Amphitheater, just before the first fork of Oak Creek. Although it would be possible to descend by walking down the Painted Bowl, or continuing up to link with one of the higher routes, the most common descent uses two double rope rappels starting at a bolted anchor right at the top of Plate of Fate. If approaching this anchor from above, go to the area of vegetation at the easternmost part of the Painted Bowl. You need to scramble down for fifteen feet of third class before you can see the bolts.
The right (downstream) side of the Black Orpheus Amphitheater is a southwest-facing alcove with several medium-length routes. These are best approached by starting out of the streambed as for Black Orpheus, then quickly traversing right to a steep gully. The routes end in a low-angle broken area just to the west of the notch on Sunspot Ridge. The obvious descent is to scramble right (east) to the notch, downclimb fifteen feet, rappel from a small bush to ledges at the top of Solar Slab's second pitch, then continue down the Solar Slab rappels. Alternatively, one could climb the last pitches of Sunspot Ridge or work west to the slabby middle section of Black Orpheus and ascend that route.
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
Classic Climbing Routes at Black Orpheus Amphitheater
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season