The Black Widow
Avg: 3.7 from 6 votes
Routes in Black Orpheus Amphitheater
|Black Baby T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Black Ops T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Black Orpheus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Black Widow, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|Eurydice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Howl's Moving Castle T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Marijuana T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Offset Corners T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Plate of Fate T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Secret World of Arrietty, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|There and Back Again T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Tuscarora T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|Type:||Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches|
FFA (Complete Line): Joshua Janes & Darren Snipes (w/ special thanks to A. Pfaff) - March, 2012
FFA (Pitch 1 & 2): T. Cecil - 1995
|Page Views:||3,070 total, 44/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Janes on Mar 11, 2012|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionThe Black Widow is a route that offers difficult, technical climbing on the first pitch, a wild, fun roof on the second pitch, and an awesome, extended boulder problem crux followed by exposed glory climbing on the third pitch. This rig is sure to be sunny, is crowd-free, and is a totally rad rock climb. Just goes to show that amazing FA's in Red Rocks are still out there!
Up and right from the top of the approach gully is a pleasant area adorned with sizable, flat boulders. This is beneath a large, black, scoop-like cavity in the wall; begin climbing at the toe of a slabby buttress just left of this cavity.
P1 (5.11b, 135'): Climb up a low angle crack to a ledge beneath the steep, black wall above. Clip the first of several bolts and climb up and right into a water groove/crack system. Follow this past a thin face climbing crux and continue to a bolted anchor at a small hole.
P2 (5.10d, 120'): Face climb directly above the anchor with spaced protection to a body-length, horizontal roof. A bolt at the lip protects pulling the roof, but this can be very difficult to clip for those of shorter stature. Kick the feet free and heel hook over the lip, stand up, and continue up the face above to another bolted anchor at a tiny ledge.
P3 (5.12, 120'): Face climb directly above the anchor on fragile rock to the steep underbelly of the arch. Twenty feet of well-protected, but intense, dynamic, and improbable climbing leads to better holds and a chance for a shake. Note that there is one small flake here that would probably rip right off if you pulled too hard on it - I used it gently in order to get a shake, so for that reason I elected not to clean it. A few more tricky moves get you out from underneath the arch and up onto the exposed upper headwall. Follow a beautiful, steep crack system for 90' to a belay stance on white rock.
P4 (5.7, 125'): Romp up the lower angle slab (unprotected), or slightly left along a nice finger crack, and then work back right to a final vertical, varnished face. Climb one of several cracks up this to a belay stance 100' from the IBM Boulder.
Rap the route with an 80m (a 70 is just not quite adequate) or two ropes, or walk over and rap Plate of Fate, or walk off via the Upper Painted Bowl descent.