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The Secret World of Arrietty
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.4 from 7
votes
Routes in Black Orpheus Amphitheater
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Administrative Overreach T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Black Baby T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Black Ops T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Black Orpheus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Black Widow, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Eurydice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Fortress of Xanadu, The T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Howl's Moving Castle T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Marijuana T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Offset Corners T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Plate of Fate T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Secret World of Arrietty, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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There and Back Again T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tuscarora T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
| Type: | Trad, 140 ft (42 m) |
| GPS: | 36.10256, -115.49045 |
| FA: | FA: Unknown.FFA: Joshua Janes & Josh Thompson - Spring, 2012 |
| Page Views: | 4,792 total · 27/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Apr 2, 2012 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste
Details
HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.
See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.
Description
The Secret World of Arrietty climbs the arch-feature immediately left of the Plate of Fate, pulling through the massive yawning roof right at it's widest. This is a great new route with wild and burly climbing, mostly excellent rock, and great pro. No move is harder than 10d, probably, but the cumulative effects of placing gear and sussing out the sequences on the fly are quite taxing - though knee barring and hand jamming skills can take the sting out of it. Super fun!
Beginning immediately left of the Plate of Fate, climb the left margin of the namesake plate and, with some difficulty, pull up onto better rock above. From here the route follows a vague seam/corner passing spaced but good gear to a large wedged flake. There is a tricky but bomber cam placement immediately above this flake. Continue via liebacks and kneebars to a strange hole-thingy in the wall above the arch (crucial 0.75 Camalot placement). Pull past this, up and over, to a precarious stance on really nice rock - take some time to catch your breath because it’s about to be game on: Moving left, step back down below the arch, and begin a wild traverse left via underclings, hand jams, and occasional jugs. There’'s not much for feet, but some trickery affords much needed rests before a final, burly reach left to a large, flat hold at the lip of the arch. Mantling onto this might not be the crux...– but it will certainly feel that way. And while things may seem desperate, the pro is good so you must go for it! You must! Once up above the arch, a thin move or two leads to the final station on the Plate of Fate rap route. Nice! Enjoy the bird’'s eye view of your partner struggling as you bring him/her up. Remember, a 70m cord is not long enough to lower to the ground while the rope is still running through all the gear, so rapping off is the way to go.
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