Adventure Projects is hiring a web engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Black Orpheus Amphitheater

Black Baby T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Black Ops T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Orpheus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Black Widow, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Eurydice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Howl's Moving Castle T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Marijuana T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Offset Corners T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Plate of Fate T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Secret World of Arrietty, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
There and Back Again T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tuscarora T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: FA: Unknown.FFA: Joshua Janes & Josh Thompson - Spring, 2012
Page Views: 2,663 total · 34/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Apr 2, 2012
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

The Secret World of Arrietty climbs the arch-feature immediately left of the Plate of Fate, pulling through the massive yawning roof right at it's widest. This is a great new route with wild and burly climbing, mostly excellent rock, and great pro. No move is harder than 10d, probably, but the cumulative effects of placing gear and sussing out the sequences on the fly are quite taxing - though knee barring and hand jamming skills can take the sting out of it. Super fun!

Beginning immediately left of the Plate of Fate, climb the left margin of the namesake plate and, with some difficulty, pull up onto better rock above. From here the route follows a vague seam/corner passing spaced but good gear to a large wedged flake. There is a tricky but bomber cam placement immediately above this flake. Continue via liebacks and kneebars to a strange hole-thingy in the wall above the arch (crucial 0.75 Camalot placement). Pull past this, up and over, to a precarious stance on really nice rock - take some time to catch your breath because it’s about to be game on: Moving left, step back down below the arch, and begin a wild traverse left via underclings, hand jams, and occasional jugs. There’'s not much for feet, but some trickery affords much needed rests before a final, burly reach left to a large, flat hold at the lip of the arch. Mantling onto this might not be the crux...– but it will certainly feel that way. And while things may seem desperate, the pro is good so you must go for it! You must! Once up above the arch, a thin move or two leads to the final station on the Plate of Fate rap route. Nice! Enjoy the bird’'s eye view of your partner struggling as you bring him/her up. Remember, a 70m cord is not long enough to lower to the ground while the rope is still running through all the gear, so rapping off is the way to go.

Protection

2 each blue Alien/0 TCU to 0.5 Camalot
1 each 0.75 to #4 Camalot
Wires
Lots of long runners
70m cord is a must for descending

Photos

Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
This is the way all route descriptions should be written. Now photos!!!! Sounds like fun. Apr 3, 2012
Shawn Cook
  5.11b
Shawn Cook  
  5.11b
This was a sweet pitch!! Gear beta was good. I would say it looks harder than it is, but grade is good. Sorry didn't get any pics. Dec 18, 2013
G Robbins  
 
Great Route! Great name and accurate write up. Get on this. Dec 30, 2016

More About The Secret World of Arrietty

Printer-Friendly