Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Black Orpheus Amphitheater

Black Baby T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Black Ops T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Orpheus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Black Widow, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Howl's Moving Castle T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Marijuana T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Offset Corners T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Plate of Fate T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Secret World of Arrietty, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
There and Back Again T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tuscarora T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Unknown (Possibly Mike Tupper based on the bolt hangers?)
Page Views: 959 total, 14/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Mar 3, 2012
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

The creative name "Offset Corners" doesn't really do this climb justice. It is a fantastic pitch that is sustained and has two difficult, interesting, and exciting cruxes - one of which is the very last set of moves to a finishing jug.

Begin on the SW face of a large brown block (see Location description below) beneath the two left-facing corners. Climb easily up the first corner passing three bolts and gear placements to the corner's end. Move wildly up and right across the face towards the second corner (first crux) and mantle up to a stance in the corner itself. Continue upwards with good gear and two more bolts before making a difficult reach (second crux) at the top to a blind hold. Pull over onto a slabby topout.

There is currently no anchor on the top of this formation and finding good gear is difficult (but possible). Descend from the back by scrambling down a chimney and contouring around the west side of the block.

Location

Follow the climbers' trail into Oak Creek Canyon passing underneath the Solar Slab area and eventually dropping down into the wash. Continue in the wash about 200-300 yards and look off to the right (north) side of the canyon: The climb is located on a huge brown block a few hundred feet above the canyon floor. It follows two left facing corners, one on top of the other, on the SW face of this block. Continue much further up canyon than you might think past the block until you reach the Black Orpheus approach. Scramble up the 4th class slab until level with the block and then easily contour back east to the climb.

Protection

Standard rack. There are five bolts protecting this route: Two are 3/8", three are 1/4"; all are in need of replacement. Actually, not all of them are essential and those should probably just be pulled, but there are at least two bolts (those protecting each crux) that are pretty key.
Second the motion. You are the king of shit no one's gotten around to, I thought I had a shot at that title, but I concede. Interesting that it looks like a Tupper route, I hadn't guessed those guys might've put it up. Mar 6, 2012
Josh Janes    
 
Thanks for the complement Xavier. I'm glad the beta is appreciated! Mar 5, 2012
Xavier Wasiak
Las Vegas, NV
Xavier Wasiak   Las Vegas, NV
Looks like a great pitch guys. Josh, it's been cool seeing your posting of some of the harder lines out there. Nice work and thanks for the info. Mar 5, 2012