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Routes in Black Orpheus Amphitheater
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Administrative Overreach T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Black Baby T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Black Ops T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Black Orpheus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Black Widow, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Eurydice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Fortress of Xanadu, The T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Howl's Moving Castle T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Marijuana T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Offset Corners T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Plate of Fate T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Secret World of Arrietty, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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There and Back Again T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tuscarora T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| GPS: | 36.10256, -115.49045 |
| FA: | Unknown (Possibly Mike Tupper based on the bolt hangers?) |
| Page Views: | 2,123 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Mar 3, 2012 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste
Details
HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.
See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.
Description
The creative name "Offset Corners" doesn't really do this climb justice. It is a fantastic pitch that is sustained and has two difficult, interesting, and exciting cruxes - one of which is the very last set of moves to a finishing jug.
Begin on the SW face of a large brown block (see Location description below) beneath the two left-facing corners. Climb easily up the first corner passing three bolts and gear placements to the corner's end. Move wildly up and right across the face towards the second corner (first crux) and mantle up to a stance in the corner itself. Continue upwards with good gear and two more bolts before making a difficult reach (second crux) at the top to a blind hold. Pull over onto a slabby topout.
There is currently no anchor on the top of this formation and finding good gear is difficult (but possible). Descend from the back by scrambling down a chimney and contouring around the west side of the block.
Location
Follow the climbers' trail into Oak Creek Canyon passing underneath the Solar Slab area and eventually dropping down into the wash. Continue in the wash about 200-300 yards and look off to the right (north) side of the canyon: The climb is located on a huge brown block a few hundred feet above the canyon floor. It follows two left facing corners, one on top of the other, on the SW face of this block. Continue much further up canyon than you might think past the block until you reach the Black Orpheus approach. Scramble up the 4th class slab until level with the block and then easily contour back east to the climb.
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