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Routes in Black Orpheus Amphitheater
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Administrative Overreach T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Black Baby T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Black Ops T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Black Orpheus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Black Widow, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Eurydice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Fortress of Xanadu, The T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Howl's Moving Castle T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Marijuana T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Offset Corners T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Plate of Fate T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Secret World of Arrietty, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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There and Back Again T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tuscarora T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,290 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Townsend on Nov 7, 2017 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Rated 5.4 in the Handren guide (really, Jerry?), this route is actually fairly adventurous. Some loose rock, typical of less-travelled Red Rocks climbs, and quite a bit of brush to wade through.
P. 1: Follow the obvious long crack system, starting on the left margin of the low-angle apron and passing a square-cut “sentry box” feature to reach the headwall. We belayed at a good stance below the headwall, though Handren suggests doing the whole thing as one 210’ pitch. 5.7, 140’
P. 2: Follow the crack up the headwall to a great ledge. 5.4, 70’
P. 3: Scramble left and up to another ledge at the base of the obvious left-leaning crack. Figure out a belay stance that involves the least amount of brush.
P. 4: Up the crack to a big sloping ledge with cairns. 5.6,150’
P. 1: Follow the obvious long crack system, starting on the left margin of the low-angle apron and passing a square-cut “sentry box” feature to reach the headwall. We belayed at a good stance below the headwall, though Handren suggests doing the whole thing as one 210’ pitch. 5.7, 140’
P. 2: Follow the crack up the headwall to a great ledge. 5.4, 70’
P. 3: Scramble left and up to another ledge at the base of the obvious left-leaning crack. Figure out a belay stance that involves the least amount of brush.
P. 4: Up the crack to a big sloping ledge with cairns. 5.6,150’
Location
This is the leftmost climb in the Black Arch amphitheater. It’s a long crack system beginning on a low-angle varnished slab. Most of the climb is visible from Route 159, in the vicinity of the old Oak Creek trailhead. It gets lots of sun, especially early in the day.
Follow Oak Creek Canyon until almost past the amphitheater, and find an inobvious trail on the right that leads up and across below some overhangs. Once you find it, this trail is pretty straightforward until you’re close to the start of the climb, at which point about 100 yards of grim bushwhacking through scrub oak leads to the roping-up point.
Descent: After emerging at the cairns on the big sloping ledge, go up a level to join the regular Black Orpheus descent. Following the cairns down puts you on what Handren describes (page 146 of the second edition) as “Fourth and easy Fifth class approach. Fast, but tricky route finding.” We did this descent and found it pretty nervy.
Follow Oak Creek Canyon until almost past the amphitheater, and find an inobvious trail on the right that leads up and across below some overhangs. Once you find it, this trail is pretty straightforward until you’re close to the start of the climb, at which point about 100 yards of grim bushwhacking through scrub oak leads to the roping-up point.
Descent: After emerging at the cairns on the big sloping ledge, go up a level to join the regular Black Orpheus descent. Following the cairns down puts you on what Handren describes (page 146 of the second edition) as “Fourth and easy Fifth class approach. Fast, but tricky route finding.” We did this descent and found it pretty nervy.
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