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Routes in Bill's Buttress

Agnostic T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Breakfast of Champions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheatah T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Coatimundi Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dark Corner, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Derek Smalls' Crack T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dogleg T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Escalation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grand Inquisitor T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ignominy T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Lysurgic Ledge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mr. Bunney Meets The Poultry Man T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Prophet's Honor T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
PushMi, Pull-Yu T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Russian Gadgets T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Sour Queen TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Talk to the Animals TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tom Cat/Pussy Cat TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 263 total, 3/month
Shared By: Bobrunning Running on May 11, 2011
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Description

It is a fine route. Rating is consistent through the whole route.

Location

Eight feet to the left of Push-Mi Pull-Yu. Climb into the large alcove. Once out move to the left and climb straight up.

Protection

Nice top rope setup. Can be shared with Push-Mi Pull-Yu

Photos

Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
I'd give you PG13 on some of the variations here ... but even so I feel it is safer than Grand Inquisitor, myself. May 30, 2016
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
 
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
 
This thing was really good but it was scary! Anyone else think maybe this should have a PG13? Or did I do it wrong? That face was super thin climbing with the gear well below my feet and not too high off the deck. I felt much more comfortable on Grand Inquisitor than this. May 29, 2016
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
I'd agree with Burt.

Fun route, I always enjoy it. Thanks for adding it to MP! May 11, 2011
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
I think the red line is a bit off in this photo. Doesn't Agnostic climb up into the big niche and step out onto the ledge above it then up the crack straight above. It's minor I know but the moves indicated by the photo up the face to the left of the alcove are much harder then 5.7, steeper, and involve a good runout. May 11, 2011
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
Makes a good lead. The fixed tricam has been there for at least 15 years, so you shouldn't trust it for much. May 11, 2011