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Routes in Bill's Buttress

Agnostic T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Breakfast of Champions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheatah T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Coatimundi Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dark Corner, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Derek Smalls' Crack T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dogleg T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Escalation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grand Inquisitor T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ignominy T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Lysurgic Ledge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mr. Bunney Meets The Poultry Man T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Prophet's Honor T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
PushMi, Pull-Yu T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Russian Gadgets T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Sour Queen TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Talk to the Animals TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tom Cat/Pussy Cat TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: TR, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 86 total, 1/month
Shared By: WI RockMonkey in UT on Aug 19, 2010
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

These climbs start left of Cheatah. They cross just above the wave. The one on the left (off of the block) is 11.d I think, and the one on the right is 12.a. I find the crux of both routes to be the bottom 20 ft. After pulling onto the top of the wave, it is classic DL crimping and footwork.

Location

Can be TR'd on same anchors as Cheatah. Have a mindful belayer, as falls usually occur in the first 10-15 ft and with it being such a long route, rope stretch has often landed people back on the uneven ground below.

Protection

TR Devil's Lake Style

Photos

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The real business on this (these) routes is the blank bulge in the center/middle of the upper wall. The bottom is all tricks (good tricks) but the middle is designed to shut you down. Oct 3, 2012
Mr. Mix
Sauk City, WI
 
Mr. Mix   Sauk City, WI
 
I think I climbed Tom Cat yesterday, but it is hard to imagine that two distinct routes climb the face left of Cheetah. To begin the climb I started about 6 feet left of the Cheetah crack avoiding the large flake on Cheetah and the large pedestal feet out to the left. A tough start with very small hands brought me slightly left to a right hand pinch under the overhang. From there I moved right and over the overhang to a right hand jug. This finished the crux and for the remaining route I stayed on the face keeping 6 to 8ft left of the Cheetah crack.

I know this route is rarely climbed probably because of the confusion defining its path and that of the "adjacent" Pussy Cat. However, I felt the path I chose, is only slightly contrived at the start, and makes for interesting movement through the crux with a very long fun climb above. It probably deserves more attention. Jul 11, 2012