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Routes in Bill's Buttress

Agnostic T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Breakfast of Champions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheatah T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Coatimundi Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dark Corner, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Derek Smalls' Crack T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dogleg T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Escalation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grand Inquisitor T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ignominy T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Lysurgic Ledge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mr. Bunney Meets The Poultry Man T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Prophet's Honor T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
PushMi, Pull-Yu T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Russian Gadgets T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Sour Queen TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Talk to the Animals TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tom Cat/Pussy Cat TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: TR, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 106 total · 1/month
Shared By: WI RockMonkey in UT on Aug 19, 2010
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description [Suggest Change]

These climbs start left of Cheatah. They cross just above the wave. The one on the left (off of the block) is 11.d I think, and the one on the right is 12.a. I find the crux of both routes to be the bottom 20 ft. After pulling onto the top of the wave, it is classic DL crimping and footwork.

Location [Suggest Change]

Can be TR'd on same anchors as Cheatah. Have a mindful belayer, as falls usually occur in the first 10-15 ft and with it being such a long route, rope stretch has often landed people back on the uneven ground below.

Protection [Suggest Change]

TR Devil's Lake Style


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Mr. Mix
Sauk City, WI
Mr. Mix   Sauk City, WI
I think I climbed Tom Cat yesterday, but it is hard to imagine that two distinct routes climb the face left of Cheetah. To begin the climb I started about 6 feet left of the Cheetah crack avoiding the large flake on Cheetah and the large pedestal feet out to the left. A tough start with very small hands brought me slightly left to a right hand pinch under the overhang. From there I moved right and over the overhang to a right hand jug. This finished the crux and for the remaining route I stayed on the face keeping 6 to 8ft left of the Cheetah crack.

I know this route is rarely climbed probably because of the confusion defining its path and that of the "adjacent" Pussy Cat. However, I felt the path I chose, is only slightly contrived at the start, and makes for interesting movement through the crux with a very long fun climb above. It probably deserves more attention. Jul 11, 2012
The real business on this (these) routes is the blank bulge in the center/middle of the upper wall. The bottom is all tricks (good tricks) but the middle is designed to shut you down. Oct 3, 2012

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