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Routes in Bill's Buttress

Agnostic T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Breakfast of Champions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheatah T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Coatimundi Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dark Corner, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Derek Smalls' Crack T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dogleg T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Escalation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grand Inquisitor T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ignominy T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Lysurgic Ledge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mr. Bunney Meets The Poultry Man T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Prophet's Honor T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
PushMi, Pull-Yu T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Russian Gadgets T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Sour Queen TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Talk to the Animals TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tom Cat/Pussy Cat TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, TR, 100 ft
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,066 total, 12/month
Shared By: Kris Gorny on Oct 31, 2010
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

Prophet's Honor begins on the slabby ledges to the right of Dark Corner. Climb the slab into a shallow overhanging alcove. Place good pro in the hand crack, traverse slightly left and go up the face to the top. Cool and fun climbing that protects reasonably well by Devil's Lake standards, especially with double ropes. Plenty of hidden crimps. Top moves are a bit run-out. Couldn't find info on first ascents. Swartling just lists the route as 5.9 without mentioning any names. I felt it was more like a solid 5.10.

Location

Steep face to the right of Dark Corner. Easily (and, in my opinion, unfairly) overlooked perhaps because of the vicinity of such popular classics as Cheatah and Breakfast of Champions. I had no idea there was even a route there until Paul Wagener pointed it out to me.

Protection

Up to #4 BD cams (#4 fits nicely on top of the shallow corner). Offset micronuts (Wild Country Superlights or HB's), Ballnuts.

Photos

Tradiban
  5.9+ R
Tradiban  
  5.9+ R
The #4 is at the top of the alcove, you would actually climb up to place it and then climb back down to traverse left. I sunk a #.75 and a #1 a bit lower. I didn't see any good ball-nut placements.

I stand by the 5.9+, it just has alot of options and some tricky beta. Apr 30, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
Where is the #4 placement? I rapped in and at the top couldn't find any spot for pro. But the thin crack to the right of the roof lower looked good for ballnutz and C3's. And really... 5.9+ Rhoads? This route looks harder than that... Apr 29, 2011
Tradiban
  5.9+ R
Tradiban  
  5.9+ R
Nice little route, keeps getting harder as you go up. Gorny, that #4 was totally rattly, and that super-light placement was non-existent! I jammed a solid #2 C4 and took it to the top. Not bad once I figured out the beta but the fall would have been a big whipper, "R" rated I think. Apr 29, 2011