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Routes in 11: Bill's Buttress

Agnostic T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Breakfast of Champions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheatah T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Coatimundi Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dark Corner, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Derek Smalls' Crack T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dogleg T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Escalation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grand Inquisitor T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ignominy T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Lysurgic Ledge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mr. Bunney Meets The Poultry Man T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Prophet's Honor T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
PushMi, Pull-Yu T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Russian Gadgets T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Sour Queen TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Talk to the Animals TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tom Cat/Pussy Cat TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, TR, 125 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 12,414 total · 63/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Jun 1, 2002
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Coatimundi Crack is a fine line up the southwest side of Bill's Buttress. Find the crack/inside corner behind the large Oak tree. Climb using the crack and face holds to the left. This climb contains plenty of "Thank God" holds that are found with each reach of your hand.

The Coatimundi, also known as the White-nosed Coati, is diurnal, living both on the ground and in the trees. This member of the racoon family is omnivorous, feeding on fruits, invertebrates, and other small animals. They feed by using their long noses, poking them under rocks and and into crevices, and using their long claws to dig holes or tear apart rotting logs.


Standard Rack
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
Lots of great gear, but don't hang out too long in the crux!

There are three alternate finishes: (5.6) Up the crack and left behind the pillar, (5.8) up the pillar, starting on its left side, and (5.7) cut right around the pillar and pull a lieback up into the beefy crack. Jul 22, 2005
Ian Schmit  
A great climb. Some fixed Rock Empire cams before entering the bulge will give you a laugh. Clip em off and punch up 10 more feet, get some gear and go. The top dihedral has a slightly awkward top out move. Oct 10, 2006
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
James Schroeder and I did an interesting variation to Coatimundi. Climb the crack/corner until it is possible to step left. Climb/walk a bit left to a nice belay ledge by a big tree. Belay here.

Next, climb right off the belay, and continue heading right and up. With a bit of routefinding and a couple 5.7ish moves, it is possible to traverse the entire buttress, and to top out near the top of of Cheetah. This is a long pitch.

We were tempted to name this pitch "The Traverse of the Gods," but that name was already taken. Oct 10, 2006
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
There are now two fixed cams in the bulge!

This route can be sewn up with nuts and hexes. Apr 16, 2007
John W. Knoernschild
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
This climb rocks! Jun 5, 2009
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
The crux move of this climb down low feels harder than any move on Peter's Project (which I led 20 minutes before this). The crux looks like it'd be easy but it's not... This is a classic climb for sure. Apr 2, 2010
Josh Knapp
East Troy, Wisconsin
Josh Knapp   East Troy, Wisconsin
This is definitely old school 5.6! Much harder than pushmi pull ya crack. This would likely be 5.7 or 5.8 at a more "New School" crag. But the crux is very well protected and its a great climb! This may be king among devils lake sandbags! Jun 19, 2011
Go try The Pooper, "Most sandbagged at the lake" has been said more than once. Jun 19, 2011
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
This thing always feels hard for 5.6. Everytime I'm on it, I try to figure out a sequence that is both dignified and 5.6. I have thus far failed to find a sequence that would qualify as either - let alone both. Coatimundi is significantly harder than False Alarm Jam, its neighbor to the left, which is commonly called 5.7. Coatimundi feels about as hard as Grand Inquisitor, its neighbor to the right, which is also given 5.7 (although Coatimundi protects much better). Jul 29, 2015
Seth Jones
New Lenox, IL
Seth Jones   New Lenox, IL
Is this really 125'? Wanting to top rope it but only got a 70m rope. Sep 14, 2015
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
I routinely use a 60m rope on this: lead, and set the TR so that the masterpoint is 2-3 feet below the rim? Requires a little care to be lowered on that, but a 70 should make this really easy.

This is one part of DL where you should always knot the belayer's end of the rope. Sep 14, 2015
Seth Jones
New Lenox, IL
Seth Jones   New Lenox, IL
Thanks Doug! Sep 16, 2015
Ted Pinson
Chicago, IL
Ted Pinson   Chicago, IL
I agree with James - in fact, I did those two back to back and made the same comparison. Coatimundi looks like it should be so much easier than it is, but that crux down low is pretty desperate. As long as you have decent crack technique, False Alarm goes much easier IMO. Jun 20, 2016
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
I bootied your stuck Camalot from high up on this route. Let me know # and style and I'll get it back to you.

A 70m rope is needed to rap back down on this one. May 11, 2017
Justin Meyer
Madison, WI
Justin Meyer   Madison, WI
As of 7/8/17 there is a stuck cam (not mine) at the very bottom of the route. It's overcammed but it wiggles slightly and may come out on a cold day if no one destroys it in the meantime. Jul 10, 2017

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