Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: ????
Page Views: 477 total · 10/month
Shared By: Burton Lindquist on Jun 2, 2017
Admins: Ian CB, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Doug Hemken

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
-none-

Description

This climb tackles the arĂȘte/face/slab that lies between the route Escalation (left) and Coatimundi Crack (right) and just behind the large mature and prominent tree. There are two cruxes. The first is just a bit off the deck at the 20 ft. mark and involves the temptation to lean into the tree to make the move easier. Don't do it and keep it legit and 5.9+. The second crux is up high at 3/4 height on the upper slab face and involves thin crimps and side pulls off good feet at a nice horizontal. The climb ends at the big ledge shared by both the adjoining routes and climber finishes climbing to the top via the upper groove of the normal Coatimundi Crack. I am quite sure this climb has been top roped over the many years but it does not appear in any guidebook I have checked. I practiced the moves on TR and planned out the gear
placements then went back and led from ground up. I gave it the R safety rating because of the small gear options at and above the first crux.

Location

Arete/Face/Slab between the routes Escalation and Coatimundi Crack behind large mature tree.

Protection

The protection is bomber but at the feet at both cruxes (good deep and stacked cams in solid horizontal cracks). There is a deep but small RP#3 placement at the first crux to keep from hitting the ground. Above the first crux there is a small run-out but on easier moves. There is a nice bomber #2 Ballnut placement that protects the move off the ledge up the arĂȘte onto the face and into the horizontal that protects the upper crux.

Photos