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Routes in Bill's Buttress

Agnostic T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Breakfast of Champions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheatah T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Coatimundi Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dark Corner, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Derek Smalls' Crack T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dogleg T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Escalation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grand Inquisitor T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ignominy T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Lysurgic Ledge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mr. Bunney Meets The Poultry Man T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Prophet's Honor T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
PushMi, Pull-Yu T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Russian Gadgets T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Sour Queen TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Talk to the Animals TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tom Cat/Pussy Cat TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: ????
Page Views: 130 total, 23/month
Shared By: Burt Lindquist on Jun 2, 2017
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

This climb tackles the arĂȘte/face/slab that lies between the route Escalation (left) and Coatimundi Crack (right) and just behind the large mature and prominent tree. There are two cruxes. The first is just a bit off the deck at the 20 ft. mark and involves the temptation to lean into the tree to make the move easier. Don't do it and keep it legit and 5.9+. The second crux is up high at 3/4 height on the upper slab face and involves thin crimps and side pulls off good feet at a nice horizontal. The climb ends at the big ledge shared by both the adjoining routes and climber finishes climbing to the top via the upper groove of the normal Coatimundi Crack. I am quite sure this climb has been top roped over the many years but it does not appear in any guidebook I have checked. I practiced the moves on TR and planned out the gear
placements then went back and led from ground up. I gave it the R safety rating because of the small gear options at and above the first crux.

Location

Arete/Face/Slab between the routes Escalation and Coatimundi Crack behind large mature tree.

Protection

The protection is bomber but at the feet at both cruxes (good deep and stacked cams in solid horizontal cracks). There is a deep but small RP#3 placement at the first crux to keep from hitting the ground. Above the first crux there is a small run-out but on easier moves. There is a nice bomber #2 Ballnut placement that protects the move off the ledge up the arĂȘte onto the face and into the horizontal that protects the upper crux.

Photos

Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
Burt, I think it did not have a name because it was a top rope variation that did not get done that often. I led it on a lark with Rob lemon. Let's just leave it Russian Gadgets since you have resurrected the climb from the dust bin . Thanks again. Jun 5, 2017
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
Now that I see where you've drawn in the route, I'm sure I've seen this TR'd a couple of times, mostly back in the 90s. Couldn't say I've ever seen it led - it's not done often! Jun 5, 2017
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
 
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
 
Hello Steve. I was quite sure this route had been climbed over the years and especially TR'd no doubt. It just seemed to fun and challenging (at least for me) to not post up on this site. No name? If you can remember if there was ever some way this route was referred to as, let me know, and it will get named properly and justly. Jun 5, 2017
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
Thanks for adding this. I remember leading this back in the day. Kind of a forgotten gem. I don't think we even had a name for it back then. Cheers Jun 3, 2017
Remo
Madison, WI
Remo   Madison, WI
Nicely done Burt! Jun 3, 2017