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Routes in 11: Bill's Buttress

Agnostic T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Breakfast of Champions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheatah T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Coatimundi Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dark Corner, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Derek Smalls' Crack T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dogleg T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Escalation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grand Inquisitor T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ignominy T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Lysurgic Ledge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mr. Bunney Meets The Poultry Man T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Prophet's Honor T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
PushMi, Pull-Yu T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Russian Gadgets T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Sour Queen TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Talk to the Animals TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tom Cat/Pussy Cat TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: TR, 90 ft
FA: ????
Page Views: 132 total · 3/month
Shared By: Burton Lindquist on Aug 26, 2015
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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This is a variation of the route Escalation. Climb the narrow face to the left of the starting crack of Escalation all the way up and past the two tree ledges mentioned in the route description for Escalation. At the 3/4 mark and coming off the second Escalation ledge climb the narrow little and isolated sub buttress on the left to its top which plants you on ledges roughly level with the base of the Derek Small's Crack route to the right. Cruxes are the first 20 feet and the last 25 feet with a lot of 5.7 edges and ledges in between. The top 25 feet of climbing is a lot of fun with opposition pulls inward from both sides of the little buttress, cool in-cuts and slopers in between for the feet, crimps and sidepulls for the hands, and finally barndoor moves while slapping for open hand slopers on the left arĂȘte.


Written up as variation of the route Escalation in Swartling and Mayer's 3d edition guidebook - Page 127 Route 134 variation rated 5.9??.


TR so far.



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