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Routes in Bill's Buttress

Agnostic T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Breakfast of Champions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheatah T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Coatimundi Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dark Corner, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Derek Smalls' Crack T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dogleg T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Escalation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grand Inquisitor T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ignominy T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Lysurgic Ledge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mr. Bunney Meets The Poultry Man T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Prophet's Honor T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
PushMi, Pull-Yu T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Russian Gadgets T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Sour Queen TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Talk to the Animals TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tom Cat/Pussy Cat TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, TR, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,727 total · 19/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Apr 26, 2002 with updates from James Schroeder
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description [Suggest Change]

Push-Mi, Pull-Yu is located on the long southeast face of Bill's Buttress. There are two cruxes. The first is getting up the initial 15-ft crack. Once above the crack continue up on ledges heading for the tree growing out of the wall. The second crux is getting past the tree. Move around to the right and under the tree staying in the shallow dihedral. Finish up on easier rock to the top.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Standard Rack for lead, 60m rope for top rope.
watch the zipper on this one. If you start on the sloping trail part of the base where the trees and bushes clear for a view of the "valley", your most likely first piece has a great nut-in-opposition placement you should utilize.

this route starts great, finishes ugly. at the top you can still "sew it up" but it's just not noteworthy verticle terrain. IMO. Jul 17, 2002
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
There are at least three ways to start and at least three ways to finish this route. From the big alcove halfway up the route, you can do an awkward mantle left and either scramble up to the left or continue more or less straight up (I think this finish is prettiest). From the alcove you can also go around to the right and more or less straight up.

Can be led at 5.6 G with nuts and hexes. Apr 16, 2007
Ron L Long
Out yonder in Wisco.
 
Ron L Long   Out yonder in Wisco.
 
I swear the tree mid route is more in the way then ever. Avoiding the tree almost makes the route a grade harder. Climbed the route this weekend, felt like chopping the tree down! But, since it was Earth Day I thought I would let it be a little while longer....still vowed I would never do the route again. Apr 23, 2007
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.6
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.6
I led this for the second time this season and it seems to me that the tree is getting larger and more in the way. I hate it when trees get in the way of my prisitne nature time. Apr 24, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
This is a great climb. The tree is not a problem and the interesting climbing below the tree more than makes up for the five feet of awkwardness encountered when passing the tree. Plus, this is one of those few 100 footers at the Lake.

Don't let the above comments disuade you; this is a fantastic climb, and right up there with the other great 6's in the park: Brinton's, Berkely, Jacob's Ladder, Pine Tree Step Across, and Curving Crack. Apr 24, 2007
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.6
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.6
C'mon Jay-

When's the last time you climbed this thing? Five years ago? That tree has grown over time!!

Certainly a 4-star classic without the tree, but with it; it approaches a bomb! Apr 24, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
I do the route every time I'm back at the Lake, James, and unless the tree has had a serious growth spurt in the past few months, I don't think it is much different. I do use the tree as a hold (or many holds), mind you, as avoiding it is an exercise in futility. Apr 24, 2007
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.6
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.6
I now see where are difference in opinion resides. I religiously avoid use of the tree (except for the purpose of slinging for pro), which of course makes the tree a giant pain in the arse. I suppose if one were to stoop to such ethical standards as pulling (and perhaps standing) on the local flora for upward progress perhaps this route wouldn't be so bad... Apr 24, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
Hey, if it's there, use it. Apr 24, 2007
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.6
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.6
I think in the spirit of DL the tree is decidedly "off", just like an infinite number of easily reachable holds made of rock in the park. For instance when on Mouse's Misery, how tempting are the Solution Pockets of Mouse Tracks? I'll tell you; they're very tempting, but they're still "off". Even though they're there... Apr 24, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
You are saying that the tree is in the way. If something is in the way, I think it's fair. The solution pockets on MM are not in the way but off to the side. Apr 24, 2007
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.6
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.6
Yes, the solution pockets are off to the side, but who's to say that if they weren't there that I wouldn't smear a little further out to my right... Apr 24, 2007
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
 
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
 
Using a tree to help pull you up a climb is cheating in my book. You're out there to climb rock, not trees. Jul 7, 2007
If only Michael's project had a tree growing out of it then maybe it would get some love from Mr. Knower. Jul 11, 2007
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
 
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
 
Well I am going to eat my words. I lead this the other day and that tree is heinous. It was very hard to move by and it kept grabbing my gear. I must admit, I stepped on it once to move up. That tree needs a serious trimming. Aug 11, 2008
Tradiban
  5.6
Tradiban  
  5.6
Tree didn't bother me. The line more straight up to the tree is much better than the awkward mantle move to the ledge with the tree stump. Jun 3, 2010
Ryan Strong
Golden, CO
 
Ryan Strong   Golden, CO
 
good long climb ...one of the "easier" 5.6 leads Sep 1, 2010
Ben Sherwin
  5.6
Ben Sherwin  
  5.6
meh...probably could have done with out all the knee climbing. The one redeeming feature was that there is a ton of exposure...makes you start to think...even on toprope if just for a second. May 16, 2011
Josh Knapp
East Troy, Wisconsin
  5.6
Josh Knapp   East Troy, Wisconsin
  5.6
One of the easier leads at the lake. Good fun route! Great route for fist time devils lakers and trad leaders. Much easier than coatimundi crack! Jun 19, 2011
Dan McDonald
sandy, ut
Dan McDonald   sandy, ut
This route is 35 meters. You can still use a 60 m rope but it's a stretch. the belayer has to be on high ground:) Aug 26, 2011
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
It all depends on where you set your TR (on lead, the old! 120 ft standard rope length is still plenty). Most TR set ups that I see are well below the top, using gear that is at or below the rim. With a setup like that, you seldom see a 60m rope that is more than a few feet short. Aug 27, 2011
Gokul

  5.6
Gokul    
  5.6
Fun route, definitely soft for 5.6. Jun 30, 2012
Tree seems to have suffered from climbers stepping on its lower branches. If you can pull the move without it it's probably better (though significantly harder). May 24, 2015

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