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Routes in Bill's Buttress

Agnostic T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Breakfast of Champions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheatah T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Coatimundi Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dark Corner, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Derek Smalls' Crack T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dogleg T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Escalation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grand Inquisitor T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ignominy T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Lysurgic Ledge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mr. Bunney Meets The Poultry Man T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Prophet's Honor T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
PushMi, Pull-Yu T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Russian Gadgets T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Sour Queen TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Talk to the Animals TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tom Cat/Pussy Cat TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, TR, 140 ft
FA: ????
Page Views: 2,146 total, 18/month
Shared By: Burt Lindquist on Apr 21, 2008
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

Route starts down at lowest point of Bill's Buttress at buttress prow between route "Agnostic" to the right and route "Coatimundi" to the left. The starting moves are unprotected and perhaps a bit hard for the grade and folks usually step into the climb via crack and mantle move from the right a bit. Climb thin crack from said ledge that has both slopey as well as angular footholds around it to a horizontal hold at point of base of loose block. Get good pro with long runners and launch into left traverse via good holds for both feet and hands into the crux of the route where one is forced into a pretty much singular answer crux move. Stay calm and place the obvious wired nut gear placement and tug for the jugs above. Stellar steep climbing through this section and no give away for the grade. Follow featured ledges and cracks on face above and climb up into steep groove/crack above and exit onto upper ledges and blocks. Stay climbing on the prow proper at top to help reduce rope drag.
This is a nice long varied route and make sure to use long long runners all along the route to help reduce rope drag.

Location

Bill's Buttress between route "Agnostic" to the right and route "Coatimundi" to the left.

Protection

All types and sorts but intense on small wires in first 30 feet or so. The first 15 feet are unprotected unless climber traverses in from right as mentioned above.

70m rope to rap. Do not try to rap on a 60m rope.
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
  5.7
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
  5.7
Chris also meant to say that this route is fantastic and everyone should climb it! :) May 12, 2017
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
  5.7 PG13
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
  5.7 PG13
I'll restate what's been said. Do not try to rap this on a 60m rope! 70m is fine with a few feet to spare from the very top. May 11, 2017
Nick Tripp
  5.7 PG13
Nick Tripp  
  5.7 PG13
After storming the castle past some tough, sparsely protected moves, the climb gives way to a long, sweet, varied cruise, to a scenic pinnacle finish. Very fun. Oct 14, 2016
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
 
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
 
First 15 feet. No pro if you climb that first section straight on. Like I said in the route description, it is possible to climb up on the right and then step along the ledge to the business. Oct 13, 2015
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
  5.7
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
  5.7
It sure is Burt, awesome lead!! Which part do you guys think is PG13? Is it the first 12 feet off the deck? The crux felt well protected. Oct 13, 2015
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
 
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
 
I knew you would really like this route Joel.... It's a blast to lead... Oct 12, 2015
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
  5.7
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
  5.7
Might be a slight PG13 off the deck but the moves all felt secure. I got good (but small) gear in about 10 feet up. Pull a couple moves and then you get bomber gear before the traverse and crux.

I thought this route was a total classic, it needs more traffic. I thought it was much better than its neighbor Coatimundi and even better than Peters Project. Perhaps my favorite lead at the grade.

We belayed the second from about ten feet below the top on a nice ledge and it was less than half my 70m. I'd say the to the very top it's no more than 120 feet. Use a 70m rope and knot the ends, a 60 for sure wont cut it if lowering or TR.

Seriously, get on this! Oct 12, 2015
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
 
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
 
I have always really liked this little un-named 5.10 splitter in the little tower as well. It is a challenge for sure. The gear is straight forward straight in cam placements so it is an awesome little lead because of that. The hitch is there is very little for the feet so the climber has to really bare down on the parallel OK solid finger locks. Too bad this thing is so short. The very first time I lead this was as an extension of route "Escalation" and some rude person (or maybe just really desperate) had left a big ole stool pile at the base of it which made me not hesitate in firing it off in the quickest manner possible. I appreciated the easy and obvious cam placements. Jul 27, 2012
EB
Winona
EB   Winona
Classic route for sure. For added value do the sweet little 5.10 splitter in the tower off the huge belay ledge about 120ft up. Its possible the best section of finger splitter crack in the park, although its on 30ft long max.... definitely worth it though. Jul 27, 2012
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.8
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.8
There is no way that the glass like slab below the actual route is the start of the route. It's way too damn hard. I started in a nice crack to the right, traversed right, traversed left, made a big move into the crux and got pumped. Great 5.7! Jun 30, 2011
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
 
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
 
Your right-- not that long... Maybe 140ft. Seems like a long way from very toe of buttress all the way up to belay at very top...
I wasn't thinking clearly enough when I typed that figure in. You are not able to hang a 200 ft. rope doubled as a TR setup off the very top I know... I will fix the post. May 27, 2008
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
Is this climb really 175ft? I walked by it yesterday and it just doesnt seem that tall. Definitely over 100ft. May 27, 2008