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Routes in Bill's Buttress

Agnostic T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Breakfast of Champions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheatah T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Coatimundi Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dark Corner, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Derek Smalls' Crack T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dogleg T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Escalation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grand Inquisitor T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ignominy T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Lysurgic Ledge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mr. Bunney Meets The Poultry Man T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Prophet's Honor T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
PushMi, Pull-Yu T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Russian Gadgets T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Sour Queen TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Talk to the Animals TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tom Cat/Pussy Cat TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 133 total · 1/month
Shared By: Doug Hemken on Jun 7, 2010
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

A fun excursion with an alpine feel.

It was once the practice to climb this route with a point of aid. If you are short, you will still see the logic in the old approach. Zimmerman and Smith state wryly "This is an unprecedented opportunity to push your free climbing past the thresholds of yesterday."

The crux is behind the little pine tree about 20-30 feet up. This used to be aid, then it went free at F5. The latest guidebook calls it 5.4. Could be 5.6 or 5.7 if you're really short. Fortunately the hold you throw for is really big and really flat.

Finish in the dihedral as for Cheatah (which would make this 5.7), or wind around the nose to the left for easier, blocky ledges that are more in keeping with the rest of the route.

Location

Around the corner to the right of "Cheatah"; left of "Breakfast of Champions."

Protection

Pro is rather sparse as you clamber from ledge to ledge.

Photos

Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
  5.4 R
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
  5.4 R
Gear was fairly decentbut thin, and it was also all at your feet when pulling the moves. Super easy climbing though, fun lead. Jul 5, 2015
Bob Hebel
New London, WI / Plattevill…
Bob Hebel   New London, WI / Plattevill…
Last weekend a climber stepped on a fairly big rock and it shifted a few inches. It is about halfway up, inside the big chimney off to the left of breakfast of champions and is considered "still a bit sketchy", so be cautious. Apr 20, 2015
Tradiban
  5.4 PG13
Tradiban  
  5.4 PG13
Fun enough, pro is spare but the climbing is very easy. I didn't encounter any big moves, although I'm 6ft ;) There is a good belay ledge at the pine tree in the dihedral. You can also set the TR for Cheetah there and rap down. Apr 29, 2011

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