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Routes in Bill's Buttress

Agnostic T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Breakfast of Champions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheatah T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Coatimundi Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dark Corner, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Derek Smalls' Crack T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dogleg T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Escalation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grand Inquisitor T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ignominy T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Lysurgic Ledge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mr. Bunney Meets The Poultry Man T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Prophet's Honor T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
PushMi, Pull-Yu T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Russian Gadgets T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Sour Queen TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Talk to the Animals TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tom Cat/Pussy Cat TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, TR, 25 ft
FA: Existing route.. No idea who climbed it first.
Page Views: 626 total, 10/month
Shared By: Burt Lindquist on Sep 18, 2012
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

30 feet of straight in, sustained, slightly over hung, and wide finger crack that's too narrow to hand jam unless you have adolescent sized paws. There is a slight jog in the crack at mid-height that gives up a nice narrow horizontal hold above which the crux is to be found where the crack is absolutely parallel and below which there is some irregularity affording OK fingers locks and stacks. There is very little for the feet all along the fissure and the climber is forced to toe jam aggressively or make wide stems. At the top it eases off where the crack widens around a block or two and relinquishes a layback move. Burly lead!

Location

The small tower that is situated above and to the left of "Coatimundi Crack" on Bill's Buttress and makes an excellent alternate finish to any of the routes in this vicinty. Or... one could descend from above at the finish area above "Coatimudi Crack" and climb this great fissure on it's own from the ledge system at 3\4 height on this buttress.

Protection

Cams all the way from knuckle size BD Camelot #.75 up to #3. You can place excellent cams at face level the whole way.

Photos

Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
Smalls' Dec 20, 2012
Burt, you guys sure are adding to my return to WI tick list. Keep it up! Nov 14, 2012