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Routes in Sandstonia

5.5 My Ass S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Assman S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Badass Tattoo S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Barb Wire S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bass Ackwards S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bikini Line S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bobby D's Bunny S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Booby Prize S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Butterfly Flake S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Celtic Sun S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Centennial S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Clean Shaved S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crescendo S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Decameron, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
G-String S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Geisha Girl S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good Book, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hardcore Female Rash S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hepatitis C S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
ISO 9000 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jaws of Life S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kinesthetica S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Layback and Enjoy It S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lord of the Jungle T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mike Tyson's Face S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mrs. Field's Follies S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Repetition Max S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pay It Forward S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plumber's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pure Power S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Shady Lady S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Weisenheimer Brainstorm S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Witches of Bangor S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Zeitgeist S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: McCallister, Horst
Page Views: 1,744 total, 21/month
Shared By: chris berry on Feb 10, 2011
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Writing in chalk Details

Description

easy romp up wide right facing corner/crack. crux at last bolt, small roof.

Protection

One bolt at the ledge at 3/4 height, and bolted anchors. The bulk of the route takes gear from .75 to 4".

Photos

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Dan Africk
Brooklyn, New York
  5.6
Dan Africk   Brooklyn, New York
  5.6
Nice interesting trad climb, it's short but has a good mix of cracks and corner climbing. It's very aptly named, with all the water dripping on your face, you really feel like you're fixing a leaky sink! Some of the moves looked a lot more committing than they actually were once I made them, there are plenty of feet and handholds the whole way up if you look around. Even with the wet rock, it's an easy climb.

It's a good route to setup top rope as a warmup, or for beginning climbers. Since it requires trad gear (only 1 bolt right before the anchor), you'll probably find it empty. I used a couple cams (.5 - #3), and a medium nut slotted in a horizontal crack. Apr 17, 2015