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Routes in Sandstonia

5.5 My Ass S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Assman S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Badass Tattoo S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Barb Wire S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bass Ackwards S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bikini Line S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bobby D's Bunny S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Booby Prize S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Butterfly Flake S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Celtic Sun S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Centennial S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Clean Shaved S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crescendo S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Decameron, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
G-String S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Geisha Girl S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good Book, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hardcore Female Rash S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hepatitis C S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
ISO 9000 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jaws of Life S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kinesthetica S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Layback and Enjoy It S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lord of the Jungle T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mike Tyson's Face S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mrs. Field's Follies S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Repetition Max S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pay It Forward S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plumber's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pure Power S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Shady Lady S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Weisenheimer Brainstorm S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Witches of Bangor S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Zeitgeist S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Elevation: 1,351 ft
GPS: 38.1, -81.096 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 62,719 total · 431/month
Shared By: Ladd on Sep 5, 2006
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones
Getting weather forecast...
Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

One of the three areas in the region that presents an abundance of bolted routes 5.10 and under (the other two being Butcher's Branch and Orange Oswald). The tall, 90+ ft wall is the showcase of the area. Get here early, or on a weekday if you don't dig crowds or waiting in lines.

You will notice an "X" on a lot of the rocks here. This is because it is primarily a place for beginners that have a lack of knowledge. Please do not write anything on the walls in chalk. The routes at this area have been climbed thousands of times and if the rocks were going to pull out of the wall then they would have by now. There are still rocks at the top of the cliff that aren't necessarily used as holds so please be safe.

Getting There

Park at the Good Luck Cemetery on your left (coming from 19). Follow the power line cut to the fourth tower and take a left at the sign that says "Sandstonia" Follow the well traveled trail slightly downhill and right until you get to a rocky gully usually marked with two cairns on either side. This begins the switchback trail designed and built by NRAC and volunteers. The old trail followed a treacherous, steep, ankle-twisting gully and the new trail is quite comfortable and easily navigated. Yet another reason to donate to NRAC. The trail spits you out right at the beginning of the Sandstonia/Tattoo Wall at the first short route on the wall; Hardcore Female Rash. Total approach time is 30 minutes or under.

34 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sandstonia

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 36
Plumber's Crack
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 207
Bobby D's Bunny
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 143
Butterfly Flake
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 151
Shady Lady
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 291
Geisha Girl
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 307
Mrs. Field's Follies
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 44
Pay It Forward
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 110
Crescendo
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 89
Zeitgeist
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 97
The Good Book
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 231
Decameron, The
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 105
Badass Tattoo
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 175
Kinesthetica
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 85
Layback and Enjoy It
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 92
G-String
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Plumber's Crack
 36
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Bobby D's Bunny
 207
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Butterfly Flake
 143
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Shady Lady
 151
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Geisha Girl
 291
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Mrs. Field's Follies
 307
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Pay It Forward
 44
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Crescendo
 110
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Zeitgeist
 89
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Good Book
 97
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Decameron, The
 231
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Badass Tattoo
 105
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Kinesthetica
 175
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Layback and Enjoy It
 85
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
G-String
 92
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
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BrianWS  
Jamie -
The area has always been home to loose rock, and given the moderate nature of the climbing, it will continue to remain so despite the huge amount of traffic.

This is a primarily beginner crag, and being full of inexperienced climbers, the use of chalk markers tends to be way overzealous and in many cases definitely not necessary. Furthermore, it is ugly as hell and a big eyesore. The comment about disregarding the chalk marks is partially meant to dissuade new climbers from marking the hell out of the cliffs.

If you are concerned about the loose stone, wear helmets and have your group on the ground be extra vigilant - part of learning to climb outdoors is recognizing loose rock and other objective hazards without everything being marked to hell and back again. Oct 31, 2016

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