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Sandstonia Rock Climbing
Routes in 01. Sandstonia
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5.5 My Ass S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Assman S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Badass Tattoo S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Barb Wire S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Bass Ackwards S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Beef Boy Field Trip T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bikini Line S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Bobby D'Bunny S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Booby Prize S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Butterfly Flake S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Celtic Sun S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Centennial S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Clean Shaved S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Cool Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crescendo S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Decameron, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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G-String S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Geisha Girl S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Good Book, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hardcore Female Rash S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hepatitis C S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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ISO 9000 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Jaws of Life S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Kinesthetica S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Layback and Enjoy It S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Lord of the Jungle T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mike Tyson's Face S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mrs. Field's Follies S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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One Repetition Max S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Pay It Forward S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Plumber's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pure Power S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Shady Lady S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Weisenheimer Brainstorm S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Witches of Bangor S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Zeitgeist S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
| Elevation: | 1,351 ft | 412 m |
| GPS: |
38.10049, -81.09596 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 159,953 total · 720/month | |
| Shared By: | Ladd Raine on Sep 5, 2006 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
This area presents an abundance of bolted routes 5.10 and under. The tall, 90+ ft wall is the showcase of the area. Get here early, or on a weekday if you don't dig crowds or waiting in lines
You'll notice an "X" on a lot of the rocks here. This is because it is primarily a place for beginners that have a lack of knowledge. Please do not write anything on the walls in chalk. The routes at this area have been climbed thousands of times and if the rocks were going to pull out of the wall then they would have by now. There are still rocks at the top of the cliff that aren't necessarily used as holds so please be safe.
Practice proper crag etiquette and do not hog multiple routes to rotate your group through. If others are waiting, switch off after two climbs.
Getting There
Park at the Good Luck Cemetery on your left (coming from 19). Follow the power line cut to the fourth tower and take a left at the sign that says "Sandstonia" Follow the well traveled trail slightly downhill and right until you get to a rocky gully usually marked with two cairns on either side. This begins the switchback trail designed and built by NRAC and volunteers. The old trail followed a treacherous, steep, ankle-twisting gully and the new trail is quite comfortable and easily navigated. Yet another reason to donate to NRAC. The trail spits you out right at the beginning of the Sandstonia/Tattoo Wall at the first short route on the wall; Hardcore Female Rash. Total approach time is 30 minutes or under.
Classic Climbing Routes at Sandstonia
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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