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Routes in Sandstonia

5.5 My Ass S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Assman S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Badass Tattoo S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Barb Wire S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bass Ackwards S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bikini Line S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bobby D's Bunny S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Booby Prize S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Butterfly Flake S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Celtic Sun S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Centennial S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Clean Shaved S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crescendo S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Decameron, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
G-String S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Geisha Girl S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good Book, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hardcore Female Rash S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hepatitis C S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
ISO 9000 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jaws of Life S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kinesthetica S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Layback and Enjoy It S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lord of the Jungle T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mike Tyson's Face S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mrs. Field's Follies S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Repetition Max S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pay It Forward S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plumber's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pure Power S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Shady Lady S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Weisenheimer Brainstorm S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Witches of Bangor S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Zeitgeist S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Eric Horst, Charles Ganote
Page Views: 1,025 total, 16/month
Shared By: Chadd Sechler on Sep 12, 2012
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Begin by climbing up the big chimney near the tornado feature. Pass through the "jaws" (pulling through a roof) and up to a ledge. Finish up the face all the way to the anchors.

Location

To the right of Climb Free or Die

Protection

10 bolts plus anchor.

Photos

- No Photos -
Matt Powers
Madison, VA
Matt Powers   Madison, VA
It's been a while since I was on it, but what Adam said sounds right. You step left onto the face from the chimney, pass through the "Jaws", then angle up and left a little bit. Then you pull the roof, following the bolt line. If I remember correctly it was pretty casual except for the roof, which was a stout 11a/b move. Oct 10, 2016
Adam Byrd
Morgantown, WV
Adam Byrd   Morgantown, WV
Evan I did the same thing, going up the chimney and stepping onto the ledge. We figured that following the bolts up the thin face and pulling the overhang was the actual route and in line with the rating. Oct 3, 2016
Evan Ippolito
Brevard, NC
Evan Ippolito   Brevard, NC
Definitely wasn't "Plumber's Crack" I'm gonna see if I can get some pictures from a friend and maybe then we can get it sorted out. Sep 27, 2016
Sounds like Plumbers Crack. Right of Butterfly Flake Sep 21, 2016
Evan Ippolito
Brevard, NC
Evan Ippolito   Brevard, NC
No I identified the rest of the climbs I did there, including butterfly flake. The one I'm looking for was around the corner directly before "The Decameron." There was a decent sized boulder on the other side of the trail. The climb starts through an offwidth chimney that widens big enough to sit in and wedge across. You step out of the chimney to a giant ledge, then it's a face climb to another decent ledge. Climb up over a roof and finish on a face. Sep 21, 2016
Steve Lineberry
Charlotte, NC
Steve Lineberry   Charlotte, NC  
Maybe you did Butterfly flake? Sep 19, 2016
Evan Ippolito
Brevard, NC
Evan Ippolito   Brevard, NC
Does anybody have any photos of this route? Or maybe a more elaborate description? I climbed a really fun route at the New in the Sandstonia area and I'm almost 99% positive this was it, but it definitely did not seem like a 5.11. I would have rated it at around 5.7 or so, which makes me think I was on a different route. Sep 18, 2016