Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Eric Horst, Charles Ganote
Page Views: 1,197 total · 15/month
Shared By: Chadd Sechler on Sep 12, 2012
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Begin by climbing up the big chimney near the tornado feature. Pass through the "jaws" (pulling through a roof) and up to a ledge. Finish up the face all the way to the anchors.

Location

To the right of Climb Free or Die

Protection

10 bolts plus anchor.

Photos

- No Photos -
Evan Ippolito
Brevard, NC
Evan Ippolito   Brevard, NC
Does anybody have any photos of this route? Or maybe a more elaborate description? I climbed a really fun route at the New in the Sandstonia area and I'm almost 99% positive this was it, but it definitely did not seem like a 5.11. I would have rated it at around 5.7 or so, which makes me think I was on a different route. Sep 18, 2016
Steve Lineberry
Charlotte, NC
Steve Lineberry   Charlotte, NC  
Maybe you did Butterfly flake? Sep 19, 2016
Evan Ippolito
Brevard, NC
Evan Ippolito   Brevard, NC
No I identified the rest of the climbs I did there, including butterfly flake. The one I'm looking for was around the corner directly before "The Decameron." There was a decent sized boulder on the other side of the trail. The climb starts through an offwidth chimney that widens big enough to sit in and wedge across. You step out of the chimney to a giant ledge, then it's a face climb to another decent ledge. Climb up over a roof and finish on a face. Sep 21, 2016
Sounds like Plumbers Crack. Right of Butterfly Flake Sep 21, 2016
Evan Ippolito
Brevard, NC
Evan Ippolito   Brevard, NC
Definitely wasn't "Plumber's Crack" I'm gonna see if I can get some pictures from a friend and maybe then we can get it sorted out. Sep 27, 2016
Adam Byrd
Morgantown, WV
Adam Byrd   Morgantown, WV
Evan I did the same thing, going up the chimney and stepping onto the ledge. We figured that following the bolts up the thin face and pulling the overhang was the actual route and in line with the rating. Oct 3, 2016
Matt Powers
Madison, VA
Matt Powers   Madison, VA
It's been a while since I was on it, but what Adam said sounds right. You step left onto the face from the chimney, pass through the "Jaws", then angle up and left a little bit. Then you pull the roof, following the bolt line. If I remember correctly it was pretty casual except for the roof, which was a stout 11a/b move. Oct 10, 2016
Ian ●
Pennsylvania
 
Ian ●   Pennsylvania
 
Took a go at this route the past week because it was one of the drier in sandstonia. Easy fun climbing through bolt 5, however I marked this climb as "avoid" because at the roof crux the flake was so hollow that flicking it with a single finger resulted in my belayer cringing because even on the ground they could hear how sketchy this section of rock was. I lowered off and switched belays and my partner agreed that he was way uncomfortable pulling on it so he downclimbed and cleaned gear. The bolt under the roof could be moved about 5 feet right and the crux completed on better rock but I would be wary of this route until then. May 14, 2018