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Routes in Sandstonia

5.5 My Ass S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Assman S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Badass Tattoo S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Barb Wire S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bass Ackwards S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bikini Line S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bobby D's Bunny S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Booby Prize S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Butterfly Flake S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Celtic Sun S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Centennial S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Clean Shaved S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crescendo S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Decameron, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
G-String S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Geisha Girl S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good Book, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hardcore Female Rash S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hepatitis C S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
ISO 9000 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jaws of Life S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kinesthetica S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Layback and Enjoy It S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lord of the Jungle T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mike Tyson's Face S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mrs. Field's Follies S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Repetition Max S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pay It Forward S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plumber's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pure Power S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Shady Lady S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Weisenheimer Brainstorm S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Witches of Bangor S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Zeitgeist S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Heather Musante, Eric Mccallister 2004
Page Views: 1,500 total · 16/month
Shared By: Dan Petty on Jun 28, 2010
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Start behind the left end of a large triangular detached block. Pull a roof followed by face moves to another smaller roof. Move left to gain the anchors.

Location

Near the right end of Sandstonia and located behind the left edge of a very large detached flake between The Bitter End on the right and Bass Ackwards on the left.

Protection

This route has 6 bolts and bolted anchors shared with Bass Ackwards.

Photos

Burton Rosenberger
Woodbridge, va
 
Burton Rosenberger   Woodbridge, va
 
If you support free speech platforms then I suggest watching this video on Minds (link here: minds.com/media/76410932240… )

There are three distinct cruxes in this climb, and you can easily see all from the ground. The first roof, the mid-way layback, and the second roof. This climbing definitely worth doing if Tattoo wall is over run. The last bolt is a bit tricky to clip as well so be careful.

And yes ... I cheesed the top a bit in my stressed single focus mindset I allowed myself to slip into. :/ Don't be me and cheese the top, there are some good holds up there if you move slowly to obtain them :D

youtu.be/vOUk5vj1DCI Oct 9, 2017

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