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Routes in Sandstonia

5.5 My Ass S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Assman S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Badass Tattoo S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Barb Wire S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bass Ackwards S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bikini Line S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bobby D's Bunny S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Booby Prize S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Butterfly Flake S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Celtic Sun S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Centennial S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Clean Shaved S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crescendo S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Decameron, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
G-String S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Geisha Girl S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good Book, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hardcore Female Rash S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hepatitis C S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
ISO 9000 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jaws of Life S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kinesthetica S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Layback and Enjoy It S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lord of the Jungle T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mike Tyson's Face S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mrs. Field's Follies S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Repetition Max S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pay It Forward S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plumber's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pure Power S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Shady Lady S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Weisenheimer Brainstorm S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Witches of Bangor S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Zeitgeist S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Charles Ganote, Cindy Hintz, Eric Hörst (2003)
Page Views: 3,800 total · 30/month
Shared By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 10, 2008
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


153 Opinions

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

This climb is the first you encounter in a neat little section of Sandstonia that is separated from the rest of the cliff by large blocks at either end. This little alcove is often quieter then the western side of the cliff and affords nice views of the river. The cave-like hole created by a large block 50 feet right of this climb creates a cool place to hide or eat lunch in the summer.

Start on the broken face just left the dihedral in some cracks (takes gear, but only a new 5.7 leader might feel uncomfortable without it). Climb the broken face, passing a roof on the left and continue up and right on the nice face to a small ledge and the anchors. You can TR the adjacent route (Lieback and Enjoy It, 5.10d) from this anchor with a directional or 2.

A fun easy route on cool rock.

Location

At a dihedral, just past where the cliff juts out creating a narrow section of the trail (just past the prominent flake and corner of Butterfly Flake and Plumber's Corner).

Protection

6 bolts + 2-bolt anchor

Photos

Benandstuff
Winston-Salem, NC
 
Benandstuff   Winston-Salem, NC
 
Well-bolted, sustained grade, of decent length. This is a climb every 5.7 leader should do. Aug 17, 2015
Matt Powers
Madison, VA
 
Matt Powers   Madison, VA
 
I thought this was a way better route than Bobby D's Bunny. Sustained and fun. Aug 26, 2015
Fun crux makes for a cruise up the rest, don't forget to clip once you make the move though. It'd be easy to blow right past it. May 26, 2016
jkw
jkw  
Was my first outdoor sport lead. Nice climb with enjoyable but simple crux. First 10 ft or so was seeping water, but was dry the rest of the way. Poor stance for cleaning anchor. Sep 1, 2016
Ian Fenimore
Pennsylvania
 
Ian Fenimore   Pennsylvania
 
My first outdoor lead. Great climb with a lot of interesting juggy features. The crux is this slabby dihedral that might be hard to commit to for shorter climbers, but if you're willing to risk a big swing you can sort of walk off to the left of it and climb up an easier section. Jan 30, 2018
Really fun climb. Big holds and decent length. Jul 28, 2018

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