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Routes in Sandstonia

5.5 My Ass S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Assman S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Badass Tattoo S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Barb Wire S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bass Ackwards S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bikini Line S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bobby D's Bunny S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Booby Prize S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Butterfly Flake S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Celtic Sun S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Centennial S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Clean Shaved S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crescendo S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Decameron, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
G-String S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Geisha Girl S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good Book, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hardcore Female Rash S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hepatitis C S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
ISO 9000 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jaws of Life S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kinesthetica S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Layback and Enjoy It S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lord of the Jungle T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mike Tyson's Face S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mrs. Field's Follies S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Repetition Max S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pay It Forward S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plumber's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pure Power S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Shady Lady S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Weisenheimer Brainstorm S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Witches of Bangor S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Zeitgeist S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Kenny Parker, Kevin Parker, John Regelbrugge, 1987
Page Views: 840 total, 10/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Aug 22, 2010
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

This route stays dry in a light rain. Climb up broken rock to reach the arete to the left of the crack system. Climb up the arete to reach the crack and follow it to the thin hands section and a great hand jam. Plug some gear in the thin hands section. From here, make a reach to a horizontal jug and keep going on pumpy but positive holds to the finish.

Location

At the right end of the Sandstonia Area, locate the obvious overhanging crack system on the underside of a detached pillar.

Protection

Nothing larger than a #1 Camalot. .75 Camalots for sure. A few nuts or small cams (< .5"). Shuts.

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