Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Eric Horst, 2004
Page Views: 1,269 total · 12/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Aug 22, 2010
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

This is the route for those chasing the 5.13a grade. Climb up some ledges to reach the first bolt and head left on to the arete. Climb up to the 3rd bolt and shake out. From here, climb the arete, pinching your way to the 4th bolt (crux). After the 4th bolt, continue out right on to the face over easier terrain to the anchors.

Location

From the Tattoo Wall (Sandstonia Left), continue up stream passing the Bikini Line, 5.11c area. Just before the trail drops down and around the cliff, look for a short arete on white rock. This climb is on the arete between Plumber's Crack, 5.6 and White Henna, 5.12b.

Protection

5 bolts, shuts.

Photos

Ian Miller
St. Mary
Ian Miller   St. Mary
Cool movement in the middle, I think this climb could be enjoyed by a solid 12b/c climber. In my opinion the middle sequence is more interesting and not too much harder if you avoid the massive ledge and no hands rest out to the left, though maybe this is a bit contrived. Jun 8, 2018
Gummy
Akron, OH
5.12b
Gummy   Akron, OH
5.12b
I think this is no harder than 5.12b. Oct 17, 2018