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Routes in Sandstonia

5.5 My Ass S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Assman S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Badass Tattoo S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Barb Wire S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bass Ackwards S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bikini Line S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bobby D's Bunny S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Booby Prize S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Butterfly Flake S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Celtic Sun S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Centennial S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Clean Shaved S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crescendo S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Decameron, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
G-String S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Geisha Girl S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good Book, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hardcore Female Rash S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hepatitis C S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
ISO 9000 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jaws of Life S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kinesthetica S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Layback and Enjoy It S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lord of the Jungle T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mike Tyson's Face S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mrs. Field's Follies S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Repetition Max S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pay It Forward S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plumber's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pure Power S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Shady Lady S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Weisenheimer Brainstorm S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Witches of Bangor S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Zeitgeist S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Eric Hörst, Cindy Hintz, Charles Ganote (2003)
Page Views: 16,776 total, 142/month
Shared By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 10, 2008
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Writing in chalk Details

Description

This is a really fun route with a crack, some face, and an overhang on really nice rock.

Start as for Geisha Girl by climbing the wide crack, then straight up to the intimidating roof (easier than it looks). Surmount the roof to the anchors.

Location

Same as Geisha Girl, at a wide crack just right of the starting block of Bobby D's Bunny

Protection

10 bolts + 2-bolt anchor. 60M rope.

Photos

Jacob Sustrich  
  5.8
Up to the first bolt is safe and easy, just take your time. Another option is to traverse in from the right after clipping the first bolt of Kinesthetica, you can just sidle across a massive ledge and clip it if you have members of your group who aren't confident. Jun 23, 2017
Matthew Massey
Beckley, WV
 
Matthew Massey   Beckley, WV
 
If you have a 12' stickclip and you can't quite reach the first bolt, you can clip the bolt to the left of it, the first bolt of Geisha Girl and use the
big ledge to move the draw to the right easily. (if it's a slow day and nobody else is on it already, obviously). Jun 7, 2017
Kurt G.
Reading, PA
  5.8
Kurt G.   Reading, PA
  5.8
I found an optional direct start if you want to avoid (or suck at) crack climbing. there was already chalk on a few holds so it should be obvious where to start Apr 18, 2017
jkw
jkw  
Great route, one of the tallest moderates at the New. Roof looks harder than it is, and just under it offers a big ledge to take a rest, turn around and catch a nice view. Highball start was a bit more than I was willing to lead (I had no gear to protect the crack). First bolt is too high to stick clip with even a 12' stick. Sep 1, 2016
Gary Wheaton
Lexington Park, Maryland
Gary Wheaton   Lexington Park, Maryland
Bring a #4 to protect the wide crack or a long stick clip. First bolt is 20-25 feet of the ground. Aug 29, 2016