Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Eric Hörst, Cindy Hintz, Charles Ganote (2003)
Page Views: 19,359 total · 148/month
Shared By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 10, 2008
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


326 Opinions

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Start at the same wide crack as Geisha Girl.  Look for the first bolt heading right at the top of the crack.  If you have a long stick, clipping the first from the ground is recommended.  The climbing turns to sequential, slightly less than vertical climbing past several bolts until the holds become larger and you reach a stance under the roof.  Long reaches to really big holds will get you over the roof and to the anchor.

Location

Same as Geisha Girl, at a wide crack just right of the starting block of Bobby D's Bunny

Protection

10 bolts + 2-bolt anchor. 60M rope.

Photos

Gary Wheaton
Lexington Park, Maryland
Gary Wheaton   Lexington Park, Maryland
Bring a #4 to protect the wide crack or a long stick clip. First bolt is 20-25 feet of the ground. Aug 29, 2016
jkw
jkw  
Great route, one of the tallest moderates at the New. Roof looks harder than it is, and just under it offers a big ledge to take a rest, turn around and catch a nice view. Highball start was a bit more than I was willing to lead (I had no gear to protect the crack). First bolt is too high to stick clip with even a 12' stick. Sep 1, 2016
Kurt G.
Reading, PA
  5.8
Kurt G.   Reading, PA
  5.8
I found an optional direct start if you want to avoid (or suck at) crack climbing. there was already chalk on a few holds so it should be obvious where to start Apr 18, 2017
Matthew Massey
Charleston, WV
 
Matthew Massey   Charleston, WV
 
If you have a 12' stickclip and you can't quite reach the first bolt, you can clip the bolt to the left of it, the first bolt of Geisha Girl and use the
big ledge to move the draw to the right easily. (if it's a slow day and nobody else is on it already, obviously). Jun 7, 2017
Jacob Sustrich  
  5.8
Up to the first bolt is safe and easy, just take your time. Another option is to traverse in from the right after clipping the first bolt of Kinesthetica, you can just sidle across a massive ledge and clip it if you have members of your group who aren't confident. Jun 23, 2017
Kyle Price
Youngstown, OH
  5.8+
Kyle Price   Youngstown, OH
  5.8+
start is kind of hard for 5.8 Jan 3, 2019