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Routes in Sandstonia

5.5 My Ass S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Assman S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Badass Tattoo S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Barb Wire S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bass Ackwards S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bikini Line S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bobby D's Bunny S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Booby Prize S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Butterfly Flake S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Celtic Sun S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Centennial S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Clean Shaved S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crescendo S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Decameron, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
G-String S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Geisha Girl S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good Book, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hardcore Female Rash S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hepatitis C S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
ISO 9000 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jaws of Life S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kinesthetica S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Layback and Enjoy It S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lord of the Jungle T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mike Tyson's Face S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mrs. Field's Follies S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Repetition Max S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pay It Forward S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plumber's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pure Power S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Shady Lady S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Weisenheimer Brainstorm S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Witches of Bangor S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Zeitgeist S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Eric Hörst, Cindy Hintz, Charles Ganote (2003)
Page Views: 18,699 total · 147/month
Shared By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 10, 2008
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Start at the same wide crack as Geisha Girl.  Look for the first bolt heading right at the top of the crack.  If you have a long stick, clipping the first from the ground is recommended.  The climbing turns to sequential, slightly less than vertical climbing past several bolts until the holds become larger and you reach a stance under the roof.  Long reaches to really big holds will get you over the roof and to the anchor.

Location

Same as Geisha Girl, at a wide crack just right of the starting block of Bobby D's Bunny

Protection

10 bolts + 2-bolt anchor. 60M rope.

Photos

Gary Wheaton
Lexington Park, Maryland
Gary Wheaton   Lexington Park, Maryland
Bring a #4 to protect the wide crack or a long stick clip. First bolt is 20-25 feet of the ground. Aug 29, 2016
jkw
jkw  
Great route, one of the tallest moderates at the New. Roof looks harder than it is, and just under it offers a big ledge to take a rest, turn around and catch a nice view. Highball start was a bit more than I was willing to lead (I had no gear to protect the crack). First bolt is too high to stick clip with even a 12' stick. Sep 1, 2016
Kurt G.
Reading, PA
  5.8
Kurt G.   Reading, PA
  5.8
I found an optional direct start if you want to avoid (or suck at) crack climbing. there was already chalk on a few holds so it should be obvious where to start Apr 18, 2017
Matthew Massey
Charleston, WV
 
Matthew Massey   Charleston, WV
 
If you have a 12' stickclip and you can't quite reach the first bolt, you can clip the bolt to the left of it, the first bolt of Geisha Girl and use the
big ledge to move the draw to the right easily. (if it's a slow day and nobody else is on it already, obviously). Jun 7, 2017
Jacob Sustrich  
  5.8
Up to the first bolt is safe and easy, just take your time. Another option is to traverse in from the right after clipping the first bolt of Kinesthetica, you can just sidle across a massive ledge and clip it if you have members of your group who aren't confident. Jun 23, 2017

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