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Routes in Sandstonia

5.5 My Ass S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Assman S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Badass Tattoo S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Barb Wire S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bass Ackwards S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bikini Line S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bobby D's Bunny S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Booby Prize S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Butterfly Flake S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Celtic Sun S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Centennial S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Clean Shaved S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crescendo S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Decameron, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
G-String S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Geisha Girl S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good Book, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hardcore Female Rash S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hepatitis C S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
ISO 9000 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jaws of Life S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kinesthetica S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Layback and Enjoy It S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lord of the Jungle T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mike Tyson's Face S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mrs. Field's Follies S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Repetition Max S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pay It Forward S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plumber's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pure Power S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Shady Lady S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Weisenheimer Brainstorm S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Witches of Bangor S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Zeitgeist S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Eric Hörst, Charles Ganote, Cindy Hintz (2003)
Page Views: 2,707 total, 23/month
Shared By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 10, 2008
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Writing in chalk Details

Description

An extension to Crescendo that includes the big roof above.

Climb Crescendo to within a few feet of the anchor, then veer right through the overhangs on jugs to another anchor.

Location

Same as Crescendo, at the far right side of the Shady Lady alcove, just left of a large fallen block.

Protection

10 bolts + 2-bolt anchor. 60M rope handy (Not sure if it's required to lower off. We had one, so I had no problem).

Photos

JoshL
 
JoshL  
 
I agree with the previous two comments, the top of this is one big bolted pile of choss. With all the other quality rock at the New, I have no idea why someone bothered to bolt this line. Jun 12, 2017
Eugenel Espiritu
PA
  5.10a PG13
Eugenel Espiritu   PA
  5.10a PG13
Agreeing with Matt. Climbing into the choss line did not feel safe. Side note: 2 of the bolts were't torqued down but I tried tightening them down with my nut tool. Oct 3, 2016
Matt Powers
Madison, VA
Matt Powers   Madison, VA
I was thoroughly unimpressed with the rock quality. Really fun moves, but lots of broken / hollow / rotten rock. That took away most of the fun for me. Aug 26, 2015