Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Charles Ganote, Cindy Hintz 2003
Page Views: 4,002 total · 27/month
Shared By: Ladd on Sep 5, 2006
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route

162 Opinions

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details


Small roof near the beginning leads to good stemming through the 'X' marked blocks to the top.


Shares the same start as Ass Man, then goes right through much easier ground.


5 bolts, great beginner route with awesome clipping holds.


Winston-Salem, NC
Benandstuff   Winston-Salem, NC
The crux move is fun to pull off. Rockovers on jugs are the best. Unfortunately a little too short to be truly great. Aug 17, 2015
Jordan M.  
Would be great if there were not so many X blocks on this climb. The X block at the roof was very inconvenient and became an obstacle. First person video: youtu.be/oxDuWwZI4qM Jan 9, 2019
@Jordan M., I can't speak for this particular route, but I have noticed that newer climbers tend to be pretty generous on marking chalked "X" blocks, and often mark blocks that really aren't that dangerous. I wish folks could be a little more discerning. Use your own judgement, but realize that not everything with an "X" on it is necessarily a death block. Jan 10, 2019
Jake Jones
Richmond, VA
Jake Jones   Richmond, VA  
What Paul says is true- the vast majority of blocks marked with an "X" are simply loose, but have been for ages, and don't really have all that much potential for being dislodged and rained down on the belayer or other parties. Also, in the current climate of land managers scrutinizing highly used areas- which is definitely happening at the New (see this article for reference: accessfund.org/open-gate-bl… ), I would urge folks to use utmost discretion when deliberating whether or not to mark something.

Most X blocks that are marked are on routes with lower difficulty, and can almost always be circumvented- as it sounds like they were in your case Jordan. Part of climbing outside is mitigating potential risks as they occur, on the fly. I'm not saying don't mark blocks that you sincerely feel are dangerous, but simply that if it can be circumvented or risk can be mitigated by figuring out alternative beta, we should all strive to leave as little eyesore as possible, and that definitely includes big white chalk "X"s on routes. I climbed this route last spring I think, and didn't notice any glaring risks as far as loose rock is concerned. Jan 10, 2019